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Picking the Right Refining Partner
December 5th, 2023

For Richer Returns To ensure a successful partnership with a refiner, first consider your wants and needs By Sharon Elaine Thompson (Originally Published October 2023) Choosing a refiner is a bit like getting engaged: It’s the beginning of a (hopefully) long-term relationship. After all, these are the people you will trust to turn your scrap […]

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Using Jewelry Finishes to Make Ordinary Jewelry Extraordinary
December 5th, 2023

The Magic Touch Jewelers share their expertise on some of the most common jewelry finishes By Shawna Kulpa (Originally Published October 2023) Quick Links: High Polish • Satin • Brushed • Wire Brushed • Sandblasted • Hammered • Florentine • Stippled Have you ever wondered how a piece of metal becomes a masterpiece? It’s not […]

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The Pluses (and Minuses) of Metal Molds
September 5th, 2023

A Classic Casting Method Metal molds remain an option for mass production, but are they right for you? By Shawna Kulpa (Originally Published August 2023) Casters have been using metal molds since World War II, when 90 percent of the country’s access to natural rubber was cut off and what was available was needed for […]

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Expanding The Horizons of Steel with Gold
August 10th, 2023

From Crass to Class Exploring techniques for bonding gold to steel By Bette Barnett (Originally Published July 2023) Editor’s Note: This article is excerpted from “Steel Jewelry—Expanding the Horizons of Steel with Gold,” a paper by Bette Barnett that was published in the proceedings of the 2022 Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology. Despite […]

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Decorative and Structural Granulation in Larger Silver Artifcats
July 20th, 2023

Throwing a Curve Ball Exploring new granulation techniques By David Huycke (Originally Published May 2023) Editor’s Note: This article is excerpted from “Decorative and Structural Granulation in Larger Silver Artefacts,” a paper by David Huycke that was published in the proceedings of the 2022 Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology. Granulation is an ornamental […]

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Expanding the Horizons of Steel with Gold
June 30th, 2023

From Crass to Class Exploring techniques for bonding gold to steel By Bette Barnett Editor’s Note: This article is excerpted from “Steel Jewelry—Expanding the Horizons of Steel with Gold,” a paper by Bette Barnett that was published in the proceedings of the 2022 Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology. Despite its humble reputation, steel […]

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Podcast: Discovering the Magic of Steel, with Bette Barnett
June 20th, 2023

Discovering the Magic of Steel with Bette Barnett Airdate: July 1, 2023 Bette Barnett, owner of Studio Migoto, in La Mesa, California, is recognized for her expertise fusing steel with gold utilizing various techniques. In this episode, Bette discusses her transition from a career working in corporate communications to one in jewelry-making, how she discovered her […]

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Podcast: Granulation – Art and Inspiration with David Huycke
May 3rd, 2023

Granulation: Art & Inspiration with David Huycke Airdate: May 1, 2023 David Huycke is an internationally renowned Belgian silversmith, best known for his innovative approach to metalwork, specifically the use of granulation techniques in larger sculptural silverware. In this episode, Huycke discusses his creative process, sources of inspiration, and how he approaches testing and developing new […]

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Video – Live from Expo 2022: Teresa Fryé on Platinum and Gold Wear Resistance
January 9th, 2023

Live from Expo 2022 Teresa Fryé on the Latest Research into Platinum and Gold Wear Resistance Hosted by Andrea Hill It’s said that platinum jewelry items tend to outlast their gold counterparts. Teresa Fryé, owner of TechForm Advanced Casting In Portland, Oregon, put that maxim to the test, conducting research into the durability of each […]

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A Guide to Mass Finishing
October 31st, 2022

The Finishing Touch From machines to media, a guide to mass finishing By Shawna Kulpa (Originally published October 2022) Are you looking to save time and effort at the bench? Are you interested in cleaner and healthier finishing options? Does the thought of one day losing a finger or chunk of hair to your polishing […]

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A Guide to Sampling & Assaying Procedures
October 31st, 2022

Sampling & Assaying Primer Advice to help you get the best return (Originally published October 2022) Whether it consists of hard scrap, bench sweeps, floor sweeps, polishing dust, sludge and solutions, or any combination of the above, your refining lot is more than just an assortment of precious-metal leftovers; it’s money. How much money depends […]

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The Electrifying World of Electroforming
October 1st, 2022

A Power Trip Exploring the electroforming process and its possibilities for use in jewelry making By Shawna Kulpa How often have you seen a leaf or a seashell and thought, “I’d like to turn that into a piece of jewelry”? Unfortunately, that’s often easier said than done. You could re-create the forms in wax or […]

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Exploring Alternative Metals for Jewelry
August 4th, 2022

Against the Grain A look at three lesser-known jewelry metals and how to put them to work in your shop By Shawna Kulpa Quick Links: Tantalum • Zirconium • Iron Maybe you’re looking to hit a new price point. Maybe you want to offer your customers more options. Or maybe you’re simply tired of working […]

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Creating Stronger Joins
July 5th, 2022

Easy Bound How to combine joining techniques to achieve maximum holds By Fabio Penuela Soldering is an important part of what we do as bench jewelers. There are different degrees of difficulty when it comes to soldering, which is why some jewelers turn to laser welders. However, I’ve always found a laser weld to be […]

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Geralyn Sheridan’s Mitsuro Hikime Ring
October 19th, 2021

Sweeter Than Candy The story behind Geralyn Sheridan’s taffy-inspired ring By Tina Snyder Geralyn SheridanGeralyn Sheridan Designs • Chico, California Enjoying an afternoon at Santa Cruz Wharf as a child, Geralyn Sheridan’s parents had a hard time tearing their daughter away from the saltwater taffy making display. “I was completely mesmerized by the movement of […]

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Cuttlefish Bone Casting
August 20th, 2021

Bare Bones Casting The technique behind cuttlefish bone casting and design possibilites it offers By Margaretha Held Editor’s Note: This article is excerpted from “Cuttlefish Bone Casting: Theory of Mold Making, Design Possibilities, Practical Casting Technique and Analysis,” a paper by Margaretha Held that was published in the proceedings of the 2019 Santa Fe Symposium […]

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Wear & Tear
August 2nd, 2021

A study of the wear resistance of platinum and gold alloys Sponsored by: By Teresa Fryé, Ulrich E. Klotz, & Tiziana Heiss (Originally published July 2021) Editor’s Note: The following excerpt is from “Wear Resistance of Platinum and Gold Alloys: A Comparative Study,” which appears in the July 2021 issue of Johnson Matthey Technology Review […]

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Set in Stone
August 2nd, 2021

Kenetha Stanton, kintsugi, and the healing process Kenetha Stanton stumbled upon kintsugi art several years ago, during a difficult period of her life where she experienced several intense losses. The kintsugi philosophy resonated with her, and she began visualizing how she could put back together the pieces of her life to create something better. She […]

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Breaking New Ground
August 2nd, 2021

Christopher Taylor Timberlake mimics kintsugi in metal Christopher Taylor Timberlake, a fine art jeweler in Austin, Texas, had never heard of kintsugi until a client walked into his studio a few years ago and mentioned the art form as a possible source of inspiration for his wedding ring. As luck would have it, Timberlake’s assistant […]

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Embracing Flaws
August 2nd, 2021

Designers taking a crack at the Japanese art of kintsugi By Shawna Kulpa It used to be if you broke your favorite bowl or plate, you mourned the loss and disposed of the remains. If the item was significant enough, you might send it out for repair, but the lingering scar would forever mar the […]

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Metal Fabrication 101
September 24th, 2020

Making your own sheet, wire, and rod By Shawna Kulpa One lesson we’ve learned from the COVID-19 pandemic is the importance of rolling with the punches and knowing how to make do. If you have to close your workshop due to government restrictions, you learn to have Zoom meetings with your team from home. If […]

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Under Pressure
September 24th, 2020

Understanding stress corrosion cracking By Stewart Grice Stress corrosion cracking. It’s the bane of many a jeweler, even if they don’t know it’s happening. Ever wonder why a couple of perfectly good 14k white gold prongs failed for what appears to be absolutely no reason? Or why a 10k yellow gold chain link fails when […]

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What’s Old Is New Again
July 8th, 2020

What the future may hold for the art of guilloché By Calina Shevlin Editor’s Note: This article is excerpted from “Guilloché: From Watch Dials to Fantastic Creations,” a paper by Calina Shevlin that was published in the proceedings of the 2018 Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology. Guilloché, the decorative art of mechanically engraving […]

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Fill in the Blanks
July 2nd, 2020

Developing a modern technique using a traditional rose engine By Chris Ploof Editor’s Note: This article is excerpted from “Practical Applications of a Rose Engine in the Modern Shop,” a paper by Chris Ploof that was published in the proceedings of the 2019 Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology. It was love at first […]

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In the Clear
July 2nd, 2020

Transparent protective coatings offer jewelers tarnish and wear resistance By Shawna Kulpa There are few things more frustrating: After spending hours crafting a piece of jewelry, polishing it to a high shine, and proudly placing it on display for your customers to admire (and hopefully buy), you walk by the display days later and notice […]

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Banishing the Blues
July 2nd, 2020

Overcoming the challenges of platinum-cobalt By Shawna Kulpa All jewelers have their favorite alloy—the one they love to work in, that responds to their tools as if it were made just for them. All jewelers also have an alloy (or maybe two) that they detest—that doesn’t respond well or creates more work. So they make […]

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Step Up to the Plate
July 2nd, 2020

A beginner’s guide to plating By Sharon Elaine Thompson When most consumers think of plating, they associate it with costume or fashion jewelry. Yet many fine jewelers and manufacturers use plating daily—from chain manufacturers looking to match the color of the findings they buy in bulk to their chains to bench jewelers wanting to even […]

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Hammer It Home
July 2nd, 2020

David Huang on raising and the movement of metal By John Shanahan Truth be told, when Michigan-based metalsmith David Huang first came across the art of metal raising in college, he didn’t care for it. Given a 12-inch disc of 14-gauge (2 mm) bronze by his professor, Huang hammered away at it, but turned in […]

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The Looks of Foldforming
July 2nd, 2020

The Looks of Foldforming Charles Lewton-Brain has categorized the classes of foldforming into 10 techniques. Some can be used as the starting point for dozens of variations; others have literally hundreds of possible looks. Line Folds: A basic technique where the metal is folded and unfolded, and sometimes worked in between to achieve a desired […]

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Above the Fold
July 2nd, 2020

Charles Lewton-Brain on the art of foldforming By John Shanahan It’s entirely possible that if Charles-Lewton Brain had not learned to speak German, the art of foldforming may never have been created. After finishing art school, he learned of Fachhochschule für Gestaltung, an influential school in Germany that one of his teachers had attended in […]

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A Plique-à-Jour Pictorial
July 2nd, 2020

1. Lyons has mixed her enamel powders with water and Klyr Fire (an adhesive), and they are now ready to apply to the earring. 2. After applying the first layer of enamel, Lyons places the earring into the kiln. 3. The earring after the first firing in the kiln. Plique-à-jour enamelng is set into the […]

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Three Enameling Safety Tips
July 2nd, 2020

Three Enameling Safety Tips   Enameling is a beautiful art, but when you break it right down, it comprises three dangerous aspects: tiny glass particles, harmful fumes, and infrared radiation. Amy Roper Lyons offers three quick tips to deal with each of these. 1. When working with dry enamel powders, take care to not create […]

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Looking Glass
July 2nd, 2020

Amy Roper Lyons on enameling By John Shanahan The primary reason designer Amy Roper Lyons of Summit, New Jersey, began working in enamels is fairly black and white: her jewelry needed color. “My first line was made of sterling with other non-precious materials,” she says. “It was pretty monochromatic. I worked in that for the […]

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TruSilver Plus
July 2nd, 2020

(Originally published July 2017)  General Alloy Composition 92.5% silver, copper, and other proprietary elements   Suitable for Casting and fabrication   Melting Temperature Range Solidus: 1,570°F (855°C) Liquidus: 1,700°F (925°C)   Hardness (As-Cast) (HV) • Dwell for 15-20 minutes (after casting, before quenching): 88 HV • No dwell (less than 3 minutes): 80 HV   […]

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TruSilver
July 2nd, 2020

 (Originally published July 2017) General Alloy Composition 927 silver and other metals   Suitable for Casting and fabrication   Melting Temperature Range Solidus: 1,562°F (850°C) Liquidus: 1,610°F (875°C)   Hardness (As-Cast) (HV) • Dwell for 15-20 minutes (after casting, before quenching): 75 HV • No dwell (less than 3 minutes): 70 HV   Hardness (70% […]

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Sterlium Plus
July 2nd, 2020

(Originally published July 2017)  General Alloy Composition 92.5% silver, copper, and germanium   Suitable for Casting and fabrication   Melting Temperature Range Solidus: 1,560°F (849°C) Liquidus: 1,655°F (902°C)   Hardness (As-Cast) (HV) • Dwell for 15-20 minutes before quenching flask: 62–70 HV 0.3 • No dwell (less than 3 minutes): Not recommended.   Hardness (70% […]

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Sterling Silver Plus
July 2nd, 2020

 (Originally published July 2017) General Alloy Composition Silver, copper, zinc, and other additives   Suitable for Casting   Melting Temperature Range Solidus: 1,625°F (885°C) Liquidus: 1,700°F (927°C)   Hardness (As-Cast) (HV) • Dwell for 15-20 minutes (after casting, before quenching): N/A • No dwell (less than 3 minutes): 80 HV   Hardness (70% Cold-Work) (HV) […]

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Sterling Silver 57
July 2nd, 2020

(Originally published July 2017)  General Alloy Composition 92.7% silver, 4% copper, 2.25% zinc, germanium, de-oxidizers, fluidizers, and proprietary elements   Suitable for Casting   Melting Temperature Range Solidus: 1,558°F (848°C) Liquidus: 1,653°F (900°C)   Hardness (As-Cast) (HV) • Dwell for 15-20 minutes (after casting, before quenching): 55-60 HV • No dwell (less than 3 minutes): […]

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Deox Sterling Non-Tarnishing Silver
July 2nd, 2020

Deox Sterling Non-Tarnishing Silver     General Alloy Composition 92.5% silver, copper, tin, proprietary trace elements     Suitable for Casting     Melting Temperature Range Solidus: 1558°F (848°C) Liquidus: 1675°F (913°C)     Hardness (As-Cast) (HV) • Dwell for 15-20 minutes (after casting, before quenching): 155 HV • No dwell (less than 3 minutes): […]

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Continuum
July 2nd, 2020

(Originally published July 2017) General Alloy Composition 92.5% silver, copper, and palladium   Suitable for Casting and fabrication   Melting Temperature Range Solidus: 1,680°F (915°C) Liquidus: 1,730°F (943°C)   Hardness (As-Cast) (HV) • Dwell for 15-20 minutes before quenching flask: 97-117 HV 0.3 • No dwell (less than 5 minutes): 75-82 HV 0.3   Hardness […]

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Arctic Fox Anti-Tarnish Silver
July 2nd, 2020

  (Originally published March 2017) General Alloy Composition 92.7% silver, copper, zinc, and indium   Suitable for Casting and fabrication   Melting Temperature Range Solidus: 1,515°F (824°C) Liquidus: 1,592°F (867°C)   Hardness (As-Cast) (HV) • Dwell for 15-20 minutes (after casting, before quenching): About HV 104 • No dwell (less than 3 minutes): About HV 82 […]

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Argentium 960 Pro
July 2nd, 2020

 (Originally published March 2017) General Alloy Composition 96% silver, copper, germanium, grain refiners, and de-oxidizers   Suitable for Casting   Melting Temperature Range Solidus: 1,625°F (885°C) Liquidus: 1,697°F (925°C)   Hardness (As-Cast) (HV) 57 HV   Hardness (70% Cold-Work) (HV) N/A   Hardness (Age-Hardened) (HV) • Two-step age hardness: Anneal the casting and quench after […]

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Argentium 960 Millform
July 2nd, 2020

  (Originally published March 2017) General Alloy Composition 96% silver, copper, germanium, and grain refiners   Suitable for Fabrication   Melting Temperature Range Solidus: 1,661°F (905°C) Liquidus: 1,697°F (925°C)   Hardness (As-Cast) (HV) 65 HV after casting of bar or ingot.   Hardness (70% Cold-Work) (HV) • Fully annealed (dead-soft) before cold working: 57 HV after […]

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Argentium 935 Pro
July 2nd, 2020

 (Originally published March 2017)  General Alloy Composition 93.5% silver, copper, germanium, grain refiners, and de-oxidizers   Suitable for Casting   Melting Temperature Range Solidus: 1,598°F (870°C) Liquidus: 1,670°F (910°C)   Hardness (As-Cast) (HV) 72 HV   Hardness (70% Cold-Work) (HV) N/A   Hardness (Age-Hardened) (HV) • Two-step age hardness: Anneal the casting and quench after […]

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Argentium 935 Millform
July 2nd, 2020

 (Originally published March 2017) General Alloy Composition 93.5% silver, copper, germanium, and grain refiners   Suitable for Fabrication   Melting Temperature Range Solidus: 1,477°F (803°C) Liquidus: 1,657°F (903°C)   Hardness (As-Cast) (HV) 80 HV after casting of bar or ingot.   Hardness (70% Cold-Work) (HV) • Fully annealed (dead-soft) before cold working: 65 HV after […]

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De-Ox Silver Alloy Comparison
July 2nd, 2020

Casting and fabrication alloys (Originally published March 2017) Click on the links below to learn more about the alloys’ composition, capabilities, use, temperature ranges, hardnesses, forms, and more. You can also read a companion article about working with de-ox sterling silver alloys, “On the Bright Side.” Argentium 935 Millform (GSM Metals, Argentium International Limited) Argentium […]

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On the Bright Side
July 2nd, 2020

Getting to know de-oxidized sterling silver alloys By Irina Missiuro (Originally published July 2017) Sterling silver alloys typically contain about 7.5 percent copper, an addition that not only provides strength to the otherwise pure silver, but also helps the alloys to tarnish fairly quickly—a traditional frustration for jewelers and consumers alike. In addition, both copper […]

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The Big Finish
July 2nd, 2020

Techniques for popular finishing touches By John Shanahan Precious metals are beautiful on their own, from the rich glow of yellow gold to the dense white of platinum—and everything in between. Take that as a starting point and add the kind of patterning and textural elements that come with applying a finishing treatment, and that […]

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From Scratch
July 2nd, 2020

Making metal sheet, wire, and rod by hand By Jo Haemer “When am I ever going to use this?” Although this question is usually associated with math students, it’s also often uttered by the metalsmithing students I teach. After all, why master the art of making sheet, wire, and rod by hand when it’s so […]

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Solid Rivets
July 2nd, 2020

A step-by-step guide to an essential cold connection By Helen I. Driggs Solid rivets are one of the most useful connections for joining materials that are delicate, heat sensitive, or not metal. I like to use them both as decorative and structural elements, and although there are manufactured rivets available on the market, I typically […]

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Catching Cold
July 2nd, 2020

Tim McCreight puts it all together with cold connections By John Shanahan Technically speaking, if you have ever stapled two pieces of paper together, you have ventured into the realm of cold connections. To jeweler and metalsmith Tim McCreight of Brunswick, Maine, cold connections are everywhere. “I bet right now you’re wearing three or four,” […]

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Video: Weaving Loop-in-Loop Chain
July 2nd, 2020

Presented by Ann Cahoon Flying Marquis Studio/North Bennet St. School In this video, jeweler and educator Ann Cahoon demonstrates a technique for weaving loop-in-loop chain. This video is a companion the MJSA Press book Secret Shop Weapons, in which more than 30 acclaimed designers and jewelers reveal their favorite tools that make work smoother and life easier. Secret […]

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A Touch of Gold
July 2nd, 2020

Jayne Redman adds elegance and value with keum-boo By Shannon L. Brown Art meets engineering when Jayne Redman of Jayne Redman Jewelry Inc. in Portland, Maine, applies keum-boo, the ancient Korean technique of bonding 24k gold foil to another metal surface, usually silver. Her nature-inspired, sculptural silver jewelry is brought to life by this touch […]

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Together Forever
July 2nd, 2020

Joining two metals to produce a match made in heaven By Shannon Cournoyer    (Originally published June 2009) Jewelry with more than one metal is growing in popularity. Yellow gold and silver, white gold and steel, platinum and cobalt—no matter what two metals you are trying to unite, wedding them blissfully in a piece of […]

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Video: Tips for Melting Silver
July 2nd, 2020

Methods for melting silver alloys In this video, James Binnion, owner of James Binnion Metals Arts, demonstrates his preferred methods for properly melting silver alloys to minimize porosity and oxidation issues. James is also the technical editor of the MJSA Press book, Jewelry Metals: A Guide to Working with Common Alloys, available here.

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Reactive Hues
July 2nd, 2020

Titanium and niobium offer designers and manufacturers the unique ability to transform the metal’s appearance from an ordinary gray to nearly any color found in the rainbow. learn how to design with and anodize these reactive metals. By Kirk Lang When most people think of colored jewelry, their minds conjure visions of rubies, sapphires, and […]

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Practice Makes Perfect
July 2nd, 2020

Tips for creating your own gold alloys By Shawna Kulpa (Originally published July 2016) It doesn’t take a PhD in metallurgy when it comes to making a jewelry metal alloy, but it does take practice—lots and lots of practice. Whether it’s your desire to create the perfect shade of buttery yellow gold or just to […]

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Plating Patterns
July 2nd, 2020

Tips for using resists and electroplating to create patterns on non-precious metals. By Charles Lewton-Brain With the ever-higher cost of precious metals, many jewelers are increasingly working with non-precious metals such as stainless steel, titanium, and copper. As jewelers design with these materials, color and pattern development have become popular ways to dress up the […]

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Painting in Metals
July 2nd, 2020

George Sawyer on the art of mokumé gane By John Shanahan There is perhaps no jewelry look more immediately distinctive than mokumé gane. With its multiple colors of precious metals flowing in wood-grain patterns, the art traces its roots back to Japanese sword-forging techniques that originated before 1000 A.D. George Sawyer’s fascination with mokumé began […]

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Paint It Black
July 2nd, 2020

A step-by-step project depicting Belle Brooke Barer’s blackening process By Belle Brooke Barer Editor’s Note: For more tips and techniques for blackening silver from metals suppliers and jewelry makers, click here.  Step 1: I prepare the pieces with 800-grit sandpaper, bristle brushes, Moore’s discs, etc. to get them to an almost finished state. Step 2: […]

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Natural Curves
July 2nd, 2020

A step-by-step guide to making a foldform bracelet using a line fold. By Charles Lewton-Brain Foldforming is a rapid way of working with sheet metal using hand tools to create complex three-dimensional shapes and relief surfaces. There are hundreds of specific forms that are predictable, lightweight, conservative of materials, and fast to make—fast enough that […]

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Layered Looks
July 2nd, 2020

Considering the steady high price of gold over the past few years, more jewelers are turning to gold-filled — a layer of karat gold bonded to a core metal — as a budget-friendly option. Here’s what you need to know about working with gold-filled materials. By Shannon L. Brown Judith Bright’s retail store makes its […]

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In the Loop
July 2nd, 2020

Step-by-step instructions for making a crocheted chain By Michael David Sturlin Fabrics and precious metals would seem to be total opposites, like hot and cold or yin and yang. However, despite their obvious differences in hardness, they do possess similar properties–specifically, both are pliable and elastic, and can be stretched and manipulated. And just as […]

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Video: Finishing Handmade Chain
July 2nd, 2020

Presented by Ann Cahoon Flying Marquis Studio/North Bennet St. School In this video, jeweler and educator Ann Cahoon demonstrates how to finish handmade chain. This video is a companion the MJSA Press book Secret Shop Weapons, in which more than 30 acclaimed designers and jewelers reveal their favorite tools that make work smoother and life easier. Secret Shop […]

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Video: Crocheting Chain
July 2nd, 2020

Presented by Ann Cahoon Flying Marquis Studio/North Bennet St. School In this video, jeweler and educator Ann Cahoon demonstrates a technique for crocheting chain. This video is a companion the MJSA Press book Secret Shop Weapons, in which more than 30 acclaimed designers and jewelers reveal their favorite tools that make work smoother and life easier. Secret […]

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Color By Number
July 2nd, 2020

A step-by-step look at fabricating and anodizing a titanium ring. By Kirk Lang Editor’s Note: In the September 2013 print edition of MJSA Journal, Kirk Lang provided an overview of designing with and anodizing titanium and niobium. In this step-by-step article, he takes you through the process of creating an anodized titanium ring. Step 1: […]

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Back in Black
July 2nd, 2020

Tips for blackening silver By Tina Wojtkielo Snyder Blackening silver involves coating a piece of silver with one of a number of solutions that blackens the surface. The end result can be chic, sleek, or sexy—and it looks great with high karat gold accents. But taking silver from sterling to black can be a little […]

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Around the Bend
July 2nd, 2020

Tips and tricks for scoring metal By Charles Lewton-Brain Scoring metal is incredibly important for custom jewelry construction. It enables you to reduce the number of parts in a catch or a hollow piece, which increases strength and cuts fabrication time. The term “scoring” refers to creating a groove in metal sheet and then bending […]

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Come Together (Part 2)
July 1st, 2020

Tips for making tube rivets By Arthur Anton Skuratowicz In the second installment of this two-part series on riveting tips, I demonstrate making a rivet with a tube. Riveting a platinum tube into a gold ring or bangle and later flush setting a diamond into it looks great, as the platinum shows off the white […]

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Come Together (Part 1)
July 1st, 2020

Making rivets and cold connections By Arthur Anton Skuratowcz A well-placed rivet on a piece of jewelry can hold together components that can’t be soldered or embellish an item with a different color of metal. Tube rivets can add ornamentation or be used for stone setting. Most rivets used in jewelry require hand hammering, but […]

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On Red Alert
March 24th, 2020

The trials and tribulations of working with red gold By Shawna Kulpa “You like potato and I like potahto. You like tomato and I like tomahto. Potato, potahto, tomato, tomahto Let’s call the whole thing off.” Brothers George and Ira Gershwin may have been talking about vegetables in their famous lyrics from the 1937 film […]

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Everything Is Fine
March 24th, 2020

Victoria Lansford on the art of filigree—Russian or otherwise By John Shanahan Every jewelry designer can pinpoint the thing that first called her to the art. It may have been seeing something in a museum, or finding a delicate heirloom piece in her grandmother’s jewelry box, or even a simple wire-and-bead kit she got as […]

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Blackening Eggsperiment
March 24th, 2020

Blackening silver with a hard-boiled egg By Jack and Elizabeth Gualtieri Editor’s Note: Blackened silver is one of the hottest trends in jewelry today. The process involves coating a piece of silver with one of a number of solutions that blackens the surface. While researching this process, the MJSA editorial team learned about another method […]

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Seamless Construction
March 12th, 2020

Using simple tools to make a Heistad cup. By Charles Lewton Brain Fold-forming is a hand-working technique applied to single sheets of metal to create surfaces and three-dimensional forms quickly without soldering. It relies on the metal’s plasticity and ductility to make hundreds of complex forms resembling chased, constructed, and soldered shapes. Using thin materials, […]

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