Online Library

Wendy Woldenberg WEND JewelrySeattle A goldsmith and founder of WEND Jewelry in Seattle, Wendy Woldenberg taught high school jewelry/metals for 22 years while making custom jewelry on school breaks. After a two-week backpacking trip around Mount Rainier, everything changed. She founded WEND Jewelry, a rugged fine jewelry brand focused on ethical sourcing and nature-inspired designs. […]

Patrick McMillan The Bench/McMillan MetalsRhode Island Jeweler and metalsmith Patrick McMillan is currently the director of The Bench, located in Pawtucket, Rhode Island, a creative and educational studio offering personalized instruction, tools, and workspaces to aspiring and experienced jewelers. In this episode, McMillan discusses his essential tools and explains the key role that each plays […]

Nanz Aalund Nanz Aalund Art Jewelry Nanz Aalund is a freelance jewelry designer, production consultant, and jewelry apprenticeship educational designer. A renown author and educator, Aalund has also won multiple awards for her jewelry design and goldsmithing. In this episode, Nanz shares her most essential tools and explains how they help her create her award-winning […]

Michelle Pajak-Reynolds Michelle Pajak-Reynolds StudiosStow, Ohio Jewelry artist Michelle Pajak-Reynolds handcrafts small collections of one-of-a-kind designs featuring unique gemstones, pearls, and ethically sourced precious metals. In this episode, Michelle shares her five most essential tools and explains their impacts on her workflow and productivity. Michelle’s Five Favorites 1.) Lindstrom RX Pliers & Cutters Set 2. […]

Melissa Muir Melissa Muir MetalsmithDraper, Utah Melissa Muir is a jewelry artist and teacher who’s renowned for her high quality, incisive instructional videos and tool reviews. In this episode, Melissa shares five of her most essential tools and explains the role each plays in making her more efficient and productive at the bench. Melissa’s Five […]

Kyle Sharos Olde World JewelersFairview Heights, Illinois Kyle Sharos has been in the world of jewelry his entire life, taking over family-owned Olde World Jewelers after his father’s retirement in 2020. In this episode, he shares the tools on which he most relies (beyond his eye for quality craftsmanship) to create one-of-a-kind wearable art. Kyle’s […]

Christopher Taylor Timberlake Christopher Taylor Timberlake Fine JewelryMadison, Wisconsin Christopher Taylor Timberlake’s interest in jewelry stems from a childhood fascination with the chemical formulas of gems and minerals. Today, he creates artistic jewelry using recycled metals (including his own handmade alloys) and ethically sourced gemstones he often mines and cuts himself. In this episode, Christopher […]

Charles Lewton-Brain Master goldsmith, author, professor, and jewelry expert, Charles-Lewton Brain is renowned for his ‘printmaking’ approach to working with metal, the work is done in separate steps, groups and layers building towards the finished piece. In this episode, Charles shares the tools he considers most essential for achieving a safe and efficient workflow. Charles’ […]

Cady Carlson Dill Cady Carlson DesignsTulsa, Oklahoma Custom jeweler Cady Carlson Dill specializes in working with renewable, ethically sourced materials and updating family heirlooms. Dill relies on a assortment of essential tools that allow her to develop creative solutions to fit her customers’ needs. Cady’s Five Favorites 1.) Swiveling Vice 2. Roland Wax Mill 3.) […]

Andrew Bugher Andrew Bugher DesignMinneapolis, Minnesota Andrew Bugher is a custom jeweler specializing in creating unique, handcrafted pieces utilizing his expertise in casting, forging and sculpting. Bugher’s style combines rugged nature-inspired shapes and textures with more polished and refined details and finishing. Andrew’s Five Favorites 1. Customized CAD System 2. PHROZEN 3-D Printers 3. Meiji […]

Alex Boyd Alex Boyd StudioDenver Best known for his pieces that highlight the vivid contrast between high karat gold and oxidized sterling silver, Denver-based jeweler Alex Boyd also teaches at workshops across the country. Alex’s Five Favorites 1. Maun Snipe Nose Parallel Pliers (0:42) 2. Starrett Dividers (1:13) 3. Lever-Style Saw Frame (1:44) 4. Carson […]

Fired Up Exploring the vast artistic potential of enameling By Sharon Elaine Thompson (Originally Published January 2025) Quick Links: Enameling Basics • Tips for Getting Started • Safety Tips for Working with Enamel Jewelry artists who want color in their work but feel constrained by the sizes, shapes, and colors of the gemstones available (not […]

Stone Setting Primer Exploring three of the most popular settings styles By Shawna Kulpa (Originally Published January 2025) Quick Links: Prong Settings • Bezel Settings • Channel Settings From the minimalist arms of prongs to the secure embrace of a bezel, stone settings play a pivotal role in the durability of a piece. But these […]

Hardware Helpers How to create your own solder station assistants By Helen I. Driggs (Originally Published January 2025) I love my old-fashioned town hardware store as a go-to source for unique and useful parts to repurpose in my shop. Recently, I came across a small plastic pack of Woodruff keys in the hardware aisle, and […]

Filing Finesse A handy tool for creating identical tube sections in a flash By Helen I. Driggs (Originally Published October 2024) A tube-cutting jig is a great tool, but the width of the sawing slot on most models can slightly throw off measurements when fabricating hinge knuckles or riser tubes for cold connections. Often the […]

Secret Shop Weapons Cady Carlson Dill’s versatile prong-closing pliers (Originally Published October 2024) We asked custom jeweler Cady Carlson Dill, “If you were stranded on an island (that just happened to have a bench and some metal lying around), what tool would you want to have that allows you to do things you can’t do […]

We’re Working on the Chain, Gang Overcoming the chain repair blues By Sharon Elaine Thompson (Originally Published September 2024) In a jeweler’s studio, if you hear a lot of sighing and groaning amidst the rhythmic clinking of tools, you’re likely hearing the sound of the men (and women) working on the chain gang. Chain repair, […]

Tube Tamers A solution for keeping tubing steady and straight when soldering By Helen I. Driggs (Originally Published September 2024) I’ve been making lots of brooches lately and sometimes have trouble keeping tubing steady and straight while I solder it on for the pin stem. Either the flux bubbles and moves that tiny tube around, […]

Out of Shape Accurately create bezels for non-oval, non-round, and non-regular-shaped stones or objects By Helen I. Driggs (Originally Published June 2024) Making bezels for non-oval, non-round, and non-regular shaped stones or other objects can be a challenge, especially if you’d like to set them or contain them in something other than thin-gauge fine silver […]

Chop-Chop! Turn your takeout utensils into useful tools By Helen I. Driggs (Originally Published May 2024) Chopsticks signal fun—dim sum, potstickers, sushi, and General Tso’s chicken immediately come to mind—but they can also be fashioned into very useful tools. I always have a handful of extras on hand, and my favorite is the bamboo kind […]

Adaptable Mini Clips More bench tricks with clothespins By Helen I. Driggs (Originally Published March 2024) I’ve written in the past about using clothespins at the bench, but when I discovered these inexpensive mini clothespins at the craft store, I brought a bag home to revisit clothespin tool making. Clothespins are great to have on […]

Unleash the Magic Exploring jewelers’ laser welder options (Originally Published March 2024) In every jeweler’s studio, there’s a quiet hero waiting patiently to be called upon to work its magic. As if with the wave of a wand, the laser welder makes precision and beauty possible with just a beam of light. Need a seamless […]

The Inside Story Tips for speedy and safe clean up of the inside surface of soldered or cast band rings By Helen I. Driggs (Originally Published April 2024) For about seven weeks every summer at camp, I help my teen stu-dents fabricate hundreds of rings. Along the way, I’ve collected a bunch of ring-making tricks […]

Color Code Using nail lacquer to color-code hand files for better organization By Helen I. Driggs My hands work hard—and they show it, so I have long found myself baffled at how my metalsmith friends can manage to keep a manicure intact for more than 30 seconds. One friend told me about gel polish—a really […]

Drawing a Bead Patience, precision, and practice are the keys to better bead-style settings By Shawna Kulpa Why do bead-style settings—from classic single-row “bead and bright” cuts to multi-row pavé—make even seasoned jewelers take a thoughtful pause? Let me count the reasons… First, there’s the equipment and steps involved. When you’re setting a solitaire in […]

Fuel the Fire An in-depth look at the six types of torch gases for your bench By Sharon Elaine Thompson (Originally Published September 2023) Quick Links: Natural Gas • Propane • Acetylene • Butane • MAPP Gas • Hydrogen • Safety A torch is a fundamental jewelry-making tool. But a torch is nothing without a […]

Easy Embossing Plates A step-by-step guide to creating your own custom printing plates By Helen I. Driggs (Originally Published September 2023) I love to make my own tools, and creating custom positive/negative sheet metal for my rolling mill takes my work beyond what’s commercially available, giving my jewelry a unique look. All you need to […]

The Magic Touch Jewelers share their expertise on some of the most common jewelry finishes By Shawna Kulpa (Originally Published October 2023) Quick Links: High Polish • Satin • Brushed • Wire Brushed • Sandblasted • Hammered • Florentine • Stippled Have you ever wondered how a piece of metal becomes a masterpiece? It’s not […]

Tiny Tube Punches How to make your own set of tapered steel punches for riveting By Helen I. Driggs (Originally Published October 2023) Rivets take center stage in most of my work, and hollow—or tube—rivets are tremendously useful cold connections for stone-on-stone pieces, hollow hinge pins, or any other open-centered cold connection. I often use […]

Double Duty How to create a punch from steel rod to create better rivet heads By Helen I. Driggs (Originally Published August 2023) I make mixed material work and I rivet a lot. One of the biggest issues I face in cold-connected work is getting nicely rounded rivet heads within pieces that are curved, such […]

Post Earring Pliers Get efficient and clean bends on earring heads for round and faceted stones By Helen I. Driggs (Originally Published July 2023) I had a pair of inexpensive, off-the-shelf setting pliers that were almost what I needed, but not perfect, so I decided to modify them to make them more useful. The issue […]

MJSA Tech Sheet 46 ISO Want a Good Casting: “The Devil in the Details”—and So Is Consistency

MJSA Tech Sheet 45 What’s Old Is New (Again): Working with Heirloom Jewelry at the Bench by Gary Dawson

MJSA Tech Sheet 44 Crystal Clear: Where the Water Goes in Gypsum Bonded Investments, and Why It Matters by J. Tyler Teague

MJSA Tech Sheet 43 Steps Toward a Shop Well Kept Minimizing Metal Losses When Casting Platinum

MJSA Tech Sheet 42 Investing Resin Models, Part 2 by J. Tyler Teague

MJSA Tech Sheet 41 Measuring Up: Accurately Determining Gem Dimensions and Sizing Rings by Arthur Skuratowicz

MJSA Tech Sheet 40 Designing with Lasers How JJBückar Developed a “Light” Touch

MJSA Tech Sheet 39 Investing Resin Models: Tips for Increasing Mold Strength

MJSA Tech Sheet 38 Tips for Laser Marking and Engraving by Shannon L. Brown

MJSA Tech Sheet 37 Critical Equipment for Safer Casting by Shannon L. Brown

MJSA Tech Sheet 36 Tips for Laser Cutting and Monograms and Waxes by Shannon L. Brown

MJSA Tech Sheet 35 Tips for Laser Welding Silver by Shannon L. Brown

MJSA Tech Sheet 34 Get to the Point: Techniques for Pinpoint Setting by Arthur Anton Skuratowicz

MJSA Tech Sheet 5 Tips for Casting CAD/CAM Models by Teresa Fryé and J. Tyler Teague

MJSA Tech Sheet 32 CAD Modeling Methods: A Primer by Steven Adler

MJSA Tech Sheet 31 Tips for Casting RP Materials by J. Tyler Teague

MJSA Tech Sheet 30 All Set: A Guide to Evaluating Gemstone Settings by Arthur Anton Skuratowicz

MJSA Tech Sheet 29 Powder Power: Tips for Choosing Casting Investment

MJSA Tech Sheet 5 Buttons Are for Wimps: Debunking a Casting Superstition by J. Tyler Teague

MJSA Tech Sheet 27 More Casting Tips from The Experts

MJSA Tech Sheet 26 Tips for Handling Glass-Filled Rubies by Arthur Anton Skuratowicz

MJSA Tech Sheet 25 Tips for Soldering Set-Up by Charles Lewton-Brain

MJSA Tech Sheet 24 Tools for Working with Findings by Arthur Anton Skuratowicz

MJSA Tech Sheet 22 Fine Tuning Your Casting Alloys by Daniel Ballard

MJSA Tech Sheet 21 Solutions for the Workshop by Kate Wolf

MJSA Tech Sheet 20 Tips for Casting Challenging Metals by Linus Drogs III

MJSA Tech Sheet 19 Like a Brick House: Grading Quality by Arthur Anton Skuratowicz and Julie Nash

MJSA Tech Sheet 18 Tips for Precision Laser Welding by Bob Stanley

MJSA Tech Sheet 17 Don’t Throw Away that “Bonus” Metal by Arthur Anton Skuratowicz

MJSA Tech Sheet 16 Tips for Soldering Findings by Mark Maxwell

MJSA Tech Sheet 15 Casting Tips: The Experts Weigh In

MJSA Tech Sheet 14 Turning Household Items into Bench Aids by Jurgen J. Maerz

MJSA Tech Sheet 13 Working with Hinges by Charles Lewton-Brain

MJSA Tech Sheet 12 Creating a Palladium Diamond Ring by Daniel Ballard

MJSA Tech Sheet 11 Tips for Buying Computer “Solutions” by Bill Kopelcheck

MJSA Tech Sheet 10 Polishing Tools & Tips by Charles Lewton-Brain

MJSA Tech Sheet 9 Preparing Your Scrap For Refining by Gary Dawson

MJSA Tech Sheet 8 Tips for Working with Findings by Daniel Grandi

MJSA Tech Sheet 7 Tips for Investing Flasks when Casting by Daniel Grandi

MJSA Tech Sheet 6 Tips for Ergonomic Bench Work by Charles Lewton-Brain

MJSA Tech Sheet 5 Tips for Preparing and Finishing Waxes by Kate Wolf

MJSA Tech Sheet 3 Bench Tips from Gregg Todd & Gregg Gilman

MJSA Tech Sheet 4 Tool Tips from Arthur Skuratowicz

MJSA Tech Sheet 2 Laser Welding Tips from Bob Stanley

MJSA Tech Sheet 1 Wax Carving Tips from Kate Wolf

Well-Dressed Pliers “Dressing” your pliers for a mar-proof finish By Helen I. Driggs (Originally Published June 2023) No matter their price tags, most off-the-shelf pliers will need to be modified at some point during their work life. My convex/concave ring shank pliers are a good example because although they are 98 percent perfect for my […]

Tip Tips How to create round, tab, and claw prong tips By Joel McFadden (Originally Published June 2023) What exactly are prong tips? Tips are the parts of prongs that show on top of the table of a center stone. There are four primary types of prong tips: round, tab, claw, and petite claw. In some […]

Steel Spa Repair and rehab a vintage steel burnisher By Helen I. Driggs (Originally Published May 2023) I inherited a few well-loved burnishers that are made from beautiful old, hard steel. Because they are vintage tools, I try to treat them with the care they deserve and recently decided to repair their loose handles and […]

Solder Savers Time-tested solder-saving tips for more efficient torch time By Helen I. Driggs (Originally Published April 2023) There are as many soldering tips and timesavers as there are jewelry makers who solder. I try to teach my beginner soldering students good work habits from the start, and I also find it’s sometimes a good […]

On Guard! Stop the unintentional marring of jewelry metals in your vise By Helen I. Driggs It’s inevitable that every tool you own will eventually need to be modified. Pliers, anvils, blocks, dies, punches, and hammers—basically anything steel—will at some point produce unintended marks on jewelry metal that will need to be removed, and you’ll […]

Capturing the Glow A primer on drawing in lifted and classic perspective By Rémy Rotenier Born from a defense mechanism of oysters, pearls have been a favorite of jewelry lovers for a very long time. Unlike gemstones, which can display many optical phenomena, pearls just quietly glow, as if animated from their core. Pearl rings […]

Perfect Pinstems How to create your own pinstems for brooches By Helen I. Driggs I make my own pinstems for brooches using durable brass, nickel, or steel piano wire. The downside of working with a durable metal is that it’s time-consuming to bring it to a fine, symmetrical, and sharp point. I normally swear by […]

Toolmaking for Texture Adding custom-design surface interest to sheet metal By Helen I. Driggs (Originally published October 2022) Surface texture is a guaranteed way to create design appeal on an ordinary flat sheet of metal. I try to avoid using the manufactured hydraulic plates, pre-textured metal sheets, and rolling mill plates that everyone else uses […]

Around the Bench A step-by-step guide to creating a double loop-in-loop chain right at the bench By Tony DeLuca (Originally published October 2022) Originating in the Middle East during the Bronze Age, loop-in-loop chain making is an ancient technique that is still practiced today by many goldsmiths around the world. Although fairly simple to make, […]

Wire Minders Repurpose old pliers to create sturdy wire holders By Helen I. Driggs Gripping short sections of wire to file the sharp or deformed ends caused by nippers can be a real chore. I regularly use 12-, 14-, 16-, and 18-gauge wire and rod for hinge pins and rivets in my cold-connected work, so […]

Totally Tubular An alternative method for almost any tube setting situation By Joel McFadden Tube setting is a very modern looking setting style primarily used by hand fabricators. It’s a unique method because of the limited amount of metal wall with which you have to work. This means that traditional bezel setting techniques don’t usually […]

A Power Trip Exploring the electroforming process and its possibilities for use in jewelry making By Shawna Kulpa How often have you seen a leaf or a seashell and thought, “I’d like to turn that into a piece of jewelry”? Unfortunately, that’s often easier said than done. You could re-create the forms in wax or […]

What Jewelry Makers Need to Know About Mass Finishing with Judy Hoch Airdate: October 1, 2022 Judy Hoch of Marstal Smithy (author of Tumble Finishing for Handmade Jewelry) discusses the benefits of mass finishing, why it might be right for your shop, and why she considers it the safest most effective way to finish jewelry. Watch […]

A Riveting Finish Make this handy punch for perfectly hemispherical rivet heads By Helen I. Driggs I make a lot of wire rivets and I love the look of shiny and perfectly hemispherical rivet heads. However, achieving a perfectly shaped rivet head can be difficult with the cross peen of a standard riveting or goldsmith’s […]

Setting Helpers Discover new uses for two traditional burs By Joel McFadden Jewelers don’t often think about the smallest tools on their bench. However, those little tools make what we do possible. Two of my favorite tools are the Krause bur and the inverted cone bur. In addition to the traditional uses of these burs, […]

A Sticking Point Hold on to tiny parts with this waterproof, foolproof sanding solution By Helen I. Driggs How many times have you tried to hang on to a thin or tiny part to sand or file only to have that part fly across the studio or get lost forever in the dark, dusty wasteland […]

Need a Hand? A step-by-step guide to drawing an adjustable bracelet By Rémy Rotenier Every one of us has struggled at some point with putting on a bracelet.When I had a collection on Jewelry Television, I designed many bolo bracelets because of how versatile they were. The wearer would just slide the bracelet on and […]

Easy Bound How to combine joining techniques to achieve maximum holds By Fabio Penuela Soldering is an important part of what we do as bench jewelers. There are different degrees of difficulty when it comes to soldering, which is why some jewelers turn to laser welders. However, I’ve always found a laser weld to be […]

Details Matter Build a mini brass scratch brush for small-scale cleanups By Helen I. Driggs Sometimes, a commercial brass scratch brush is just too big, too clunky, or too work-hardened from repeated use to do an effective cleanup, especially in tiny spaces. When I noticed my old brass brush wasn’t getting my metal as clean […]

Smooth Sailing A guide to setting baguette stones into multidimensional curved surfaces By Joel McFadden Setting a baguette stone into a multidimensional curved surface such as a domed band can be a challenging process. How do you make the setting look smooth? Here I’ll demonstrate the technique I use that’s similar to channel setting in […]

Balancing Act Find a no-fail balance point on any pendant with this simple tweezer modification By Helen I. Driggs Sometimes I have a difficult time deciding exactly where on a pendant I want to solder on the mounting hardware, whether it’s a bail or jump ring. When it comes to heavy or asymmetrical pendants you […]

In a Tight Spot Create a DIY needle burnisher for finishing tiny spaces By Helen I. Driggs I love the shiny glint of burnished edges on my jewelry metals, but sometimes it’s quite difficult to fit a standard hand burnisher into sharp inner corners, complex fretwork, or in and around prongs, hinge knuckles, or clustered […]

In the Hot Seat How to minimize damage when unsetting a bezel-set gemstone By Jeanette K. Caines Unsetting a bezel-set gemstone is something that you might not do often, but it is more than likely to come up eventually. Potential reasons for unsetting are a cracked or damaged stone, correcting issues with an improperly set […]

In No Time Flat A solution to polishing small flat surfaces By Fabio Penuela Polishing is a crucial step in jewelry making. Here’s why: Let’s say that you have a custom design that calls for flat surfaces. You design it in CAD, print it, cast it, and clean it, respecting all the shapes and forms […]