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Non-jeweler’s tools give fabrication a new twist

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<h2 id="h-non-jeweler-s-tools-give-fabrication-a-new-twist">Non-jeweler’s tools give fabrication a new twist</h2>

Start with the building block of all narrative.

In a village of La Mancha, the name of which I have no desire to call to mind, there lived not long since one of those gentlemen that keep a lance in the lance-rack, an old buckler, a lean hack, and a greyhound for coursing.

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My background is in graphic design, so I have spent lots of time in traditional artist’s supply stores. I have discovered quite a few tools that do double duty at my jewelry bench and in my painting studio that are especially suited to pattern creation and design.

My background is in graphic design, so I have spent lots of time in traditional artist’s supply stores. I have discovered quite a few tools that do double duty at my jewelry bench and in my painting studio that are especially suited to pattern creation and design.

<h1><img src="https://mjsa-site-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/2017_Journal/July_2017/ATB_Driggs_top.jpg" alt="top" width="800" height="399"></h1>
One of my recent finds is a tool used for heavy body paints, such as oils, acrylics, or alkyds as well as plaster, clay, and encaustics. This month I will demonstrate how I use them to create custom-sawn scalloped bezels.
 
<img src="https://mjsa-site-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/2017_Journal/July_2017/ATB_Driggs_1.jpg" alt="top" width="350" height="350">
1. Princeton Catalyst brand paint contour tools come in about a dozen shapes, but I like the small-scale crenelated, zig-zag, and wave shapes best for jewelry work.
 
<img src="https://mjsa-site-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/2017_Journal/July_2017/ATB_Driggs_2.jpg" alt="2" width="350" height="350"> 
2. For bezels, you’ll need to measure the total depth of the indentations in the tool then add another 2 or 3 mm to allow for a metal base to solder onto a back plate. Set dividers to the measurement, and verify it is the correct height and length for the stone you intend to set as well. I typically use 6 to 8 inch lengths of bezel strip at most—any more is difficult to control.
 
<img src="https://mjsa-site-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/2017_Journal/July_2017/ATB_Driggs_3.jpg" alt="3" width="350" height="350">
3. Use the dividers to scribe a line along the bezel strip at the set measurement.
 
<img src="https://mjsa-site-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/2017_Journal/July_2017/ATB_Driggs_4.jpg" alt="4" width="350" height="350">
4. I also draw a marker line at the scribed line to assist me when I position the contour tool.
 
<img src="https://mjsa-site-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/2017_Journal/July_2017/ATB_Driggs_5.jpg" alt="5" width="350" height="350"> 
5. Trace the indents along the baseline you scribed/marked on the bezel wire (or sheet) with a permanent marker. Because the contour tool is mildly flexible and has a non-skid surface, the metal stays put as you mark it. You can also scribe these if you prefer.
 
<img src="https://mjsa-site-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/2017_Journal/July_2017/ATB_Driggs_6.jpg" alt="6" width="350" height="350">
6. Most bezel wire is thin and can be challenging to saw as it moves around a lot. To make things easier, I create a double thickness stack of two strips of metal. To do this, I use double-sided tape to carefully align and then adhere the second bezel strip to the back of the first one.
 
<img src="https://mjsa-site-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/2017_Journal/July_2017/ATB_Driggs_7.jpg" alt="7" width="350" height="350">
7. Next, I encase the two stacked bezel strips completely in clear tape for extra security, and also to prevent the marker sawing lines from being rubbed off.
 
<img src="https://mjsa-site-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/2017_Journal/July_2017/ATB_Driggs_8.jpg" alt="8" width="350" height="350">
8. Saw. Saw. Saw.
 
<img src="https://mjsa-site-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/2017_Journal/July_2017/ATB_Driggs_9.jpg" alt="9" width="350" height="350">
9. If the bezel strip is too long to fit in the throat of your saw frame, carefully curl the metal up to get it out of the way, but do not fold it, or those fold lines will be nearly impossible to eradicate.
 
<img src="https://mjsa-site-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/2017_Journal/July_2017/ATB_Driggs_10.jpg" alt="10" width="350" height="350">
10. Careful sawing means you should be able to use all four sections of the bezel wire. Peel them apart, remove the tape and any tape residue (alcohol or acetone works here), and run a sanding stick over all of the sawn edges. Your custom designed bezel strips are then ready to roll.

core/freeform

Classic

<h1><img src="https://mjsa-site-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/2017_Journal/July_2017/ATB_Driggs_top.jpg" alt="top" width="800" height="399" /></h1>
One of my recent finds is a tool used for heavy body paints, such as oils, acrylics, or alkyds as well as plaster, clay, and encaustics. This month I will demonstrate how I use them to create custom-sawn scalloped bezels.
 
<img src="https://mjsa-site-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/2017_Journal/July_2017/ATB_Driggs_1.jpg" alt="top" width="350" height="350" />
1. Princeton Catalyst brand paint contour tools come in about a dozen shapes, but I like the small-scale crenelated, zig-zag, and wave shapes best for jewelry work.
 
<img src="https://mjsa-site-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/2017_Journal/July_2017/ATB_Driggs_2.jpg" alt="2" width="350" height="350" /> 
2. For bezels, you’ll need to measure the total depth of the indentations in the tool then add another 2 or 3 mm to allow for a metal base to solder onto a back plate. Set dividers to the measurement, and verify it is the correct height and length for the stone you intend to set as well. I typically use 6 to 8 inch lengths of bezel strip at most—any more is difficult to control.
 
<img src="https://mjsa-site-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/2017_Journal/July_2017/ATB_Driggs_3.jpg" alt="3" width="350" height="350" />
3. Use the dividers to scribe a line along the bezel strip at the set measurement.
 
<img src="https://mjsa-site-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/2017_Journal/July_2017/ATB_Driggs_4.jpg" alt="4" width="350" height="350" />
4. I also draw a marker line at the scribed line to assist me when I position the contour tool.
 
<img src="https://mjsa-site-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/2017_Journal/July_2017/ATB_Driggs_5.jpg" alt="5" width="350" height="350" /> 
5. Trace the indents along the baseline you scribed/marked on the bezel wire (or sheet) with a permanent marker. Because the contour tool is mildly flexible and has a non-skid surface, the metal stays put as you mark it. You can also scribe these if you prefer.
 
<img src="https://mjsa-site-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/2017_Journal/July_2017/ATB_Driggs_6.jpg" alt="6" width="350" height="350" />
6. Most bezel wire is thin and can be challenging to saw as it moves around a lot. To make things easier, I create a double thickness stack of two strips of metal. To do this, I use double-sided tape to carefully align and then adhere the second bezel strip to the back of the first one.
 
<img src="https://mjsa-site-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/2017_Journal/July_2017/ATB_Driggs_7.jpg" alt="7" width="350" height="350" />
7. Next, I encase the two stacked bezel strips completely in clear tape for extra security, and also to prevent the marker sawing lines from being rubbed off.
 
<img src="https://mjsa-site-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/2017_Journal/July_2017/ATB_Driggs_8.jpg" alt="8" width="350" height="350" />
8. Saw. Saw. Saw.
 
<img src="https://mjsa-site-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/2017_Journal/July_2017/ATB_Driggs_9.jpg" alt="9" width="350" height="350" />
9. If the bezel strip is too long to fit in the throat of your saw frame, carefully curl the metal up to get it out of the way, but do not fold it, or those fold lines will be nearly impossible to eradicate.
 
<img src="https://mjsa-site-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/2017_Journal/July_2017/ATB_Driggs_10.jpg" alt="10" width="350" height="350" />
10. Careful sawing means you should be able to use all four sections of the bezel wire. Peel them apart, remove the tape and any tape residue (alcohol or acetone works here), and run a sanding stick over all of the sawn edges. Your custom designed bezel strips are then ready to roll.

Unexpected Tools

Non-jeweler’s tools give fabrication a new twist

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