By Helena Krodel and Deborah Yonick
Fall 2012 fashions took off on the runways of Mercedes Benz fashion week in New York City in February. Some key jewelry styles influenced by this season’s fashions include:
Collars and chokers. From Peter Pan to pointy, embellished to retro ’60s, collars were sprinkled throughout countless collections for fall-promising equal importance to collar and choker necklaces this season. The predominant jewelry style shown on the runways was the structured, ’80s-inspired metal collar that hooks around the neck without a clasp. Malleable and thin, this necklace style appears bold and structured when worn. While fashion magazine editors are sure to feature many versions of this style in their photo spreads, it’s most likely to gain momentum in plated products and non-precious metals. In the fine jewelry world, the blackened silver and mixed metal (silver and gold) chain-link necklace will likely continue to dominate.
Pins and brooches. The focus on pretty shirt collars also presented an opportunity for pins and brooches to make their way onto the runway this season-re-energizing this sleeping trend. Styles shown ran the gamut and included simple stickpins, which have not been trendy in decades. For the fall, consumers will seek out tongue-in-cheek styles, skulls, animals, insects, classic gem-set circles and ovals, and abstract precious metal shapes with chains.
Bracelets and cocktail rings. Taking cues from fashion icon and Hollywood legend Marilyn Monroe as depicted in the movie My Week with Marilyn released last year, fall runway fashions featured late ’50s flair. Cocoon coats with sloping shoulders and forgiving silhouettes covered peplum dresses that accentuate the waist. Three-quarter length sleeves abounded, leaving plenty of room to adorn with bracelets. This season, big is in, with wide cuffs ruling the scene.
And despite the fact that many of these retro outfits paired well with gloves, the cocktail ring still made a statement atop them. The most popular styles include rings with gemstones clustered together, thick precious metal bands with engraving, and rings that decoratively wind up the finger. HK

Inspired by a range of styles, spring 2012 fashion trends borrow influence from tribal references, desert and tropical landscapes, 1920s and 1970s looks, lush gardens, modern art, and Las Vegas glitz. The season’s color palette reflects these different moods, showcasing vivid brights, soft muted tones, and fun-loving pastels, often juxtaposed. Metallics remain important in the mix, and color blocking is a prevalent design technique.
"Consumers look to spring for renewed energy, optimism, and the promise of a brighter day," says Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute in Carlstadt, New Jersey. "They’ve learned how color can help them alter a mood while providing the vitality and enthusiasm that enables them to experiment with new looks and color combinations." DY
As the grass turns green and flowers begin to bloom, jewelry inspired by nature, styles of years’ past, and a desire to stand out from the crowd will explode on the spring scene. The following are key trends in each jewelry category.
Earrings. Big earrings are back for spring, but don’t expect to see them in the form of chandeliers. Buttons and ear climbers will rule. Popular in the ’50s and then again in the ’80s, button earrings (right) have returned to the scene. Some of the most popular styles appealing to all age groups include small clusters of colored gemstones, colored gemstone combos in pale hues (think morganite, kunzite, and light pink quartz grouped together), tasteful flower designs, pavé diamond ovals, and blackened sterling silver.
The newest and most interesting silhouette for the season, the ear climber literally reaches up the earlobe toward the temple. Most of
the details start on the lobe and graduate up the ear, creating a dramatic
effect. Hot designs feature organic themes such as vines, leaves, and snakes.
Rings. Sultry gemstones such as moonstone (right), hematite, rutilated quartz, lapis lazuli, and labradorite take center stage in this season’s fashion rings. Also, look for drusy to be the standout mineral in cocktail ring designs this spring, with creative settings and less-than-perfect looks dominating. Long gone are the days of women wanting to wear only perfectly faceted gemstones with no inclusions. Today’s consumer appreciates the imperfections in a gem-and the conversations sparked by its unique beauty.
Necklaces. Following the earring’s lead, necklaces will go big this season. Inspired by scarves, long necklaces that resemble lariats with tassel ends (right) will be popular. We’ll also see the classic chain link steal the scene, mostly in bold short styles worn close to the neck. Other trending looks include chokers with equestrian details and necklaces featuring American Indian-inspired symbols, such as falcons, eagles, turquoise (both the color and the gemstone), feathers, and snakes.
Bracelets. Good-bye gladiator bracelet, hello malleable mini cuff! In response to the sustained high price of gold, manufacturers and designers are scaling down bracelets and looking to other precious metals to achieve better price points. Sterling and blackened silver will remain a popular choice for the wrist, with open work and filigree designs prevailing in precious metals. HK