Manufacturing Jewelers & Suppliers of America (MJSA) has introduced an "Artisan" membership category, providing a cost-effective way for smaller jewelry makers to access the association’s many informational benefits.

Priced at $95 and available to companies that have three or fewer employees and are not engaged in mass production, the MJSA Artisan membership includes:

• A subscription to MJSA Journal, the association’s award-winning monthly magazine, which features technical and business insights into the design, making, and sale of jewelry. The subscription also includes the yearly MJSA Events Calendar and the annual Technology Sourcebook, as well as the annual Thinking Ahead issue that recognizes innovation in jewelry making.

• Free Journal back articles covering all aspects of jewelry making and design, for which non-members must pay $5 per page. MJSA members refer to and cite back articles from MJSA’s respected archives for their usefulness long after the publication date.

• Discounts on MJSA Press books. Recent titles include the award-winning Profiting by Design: A Jewelry Maker’s Guide to Business Success by Marlene Richey; The Jeweler’s Bench Book by Charles Lewton-Brain; and 101 Bench Tips for Jewelers by Alan Revere.

• Usage of the MJSA logo on all promotional materials, including websites, identifying the company as a member of a professional organization.

"The MJSA Artisan membership category offers a new entry point for jewelers to access well-researched information that will enable them to grow their businesses," says MJSA President/CEO David Cochran. "Our members include some of the industry’s most renowned jewelers and craftpersons, many of whom have generously shared their expertise in MJSA articles and books. The Artisan membership will now enable even more companies to benefit from such hard-earned wisdom, while at the same time enabling them to show their dedication to the industry-which typically inspires trust among customers."

Artisan members can upgrade at any time to a Guild membership in MJSA, which enables them to enjoy all of the association’s benefits. These include discounts on products and services from fellow members in the Member-to-Member (M2M) program; help with press releases and photography through the PR & Pix program; inclusion of products and services in MJSA’s Buyer’s Guide Online; and access to up-to-the minute research on topics such as product trends, custom design, and legislative and legal issues that arise for jewelry makers (such as recent controversies over lead and cadmium in jewelry). Guild membership costs $230.

To learn more, go to mjsa.org, or contact MJSA Sales Manager Corrie Silvia at 1-800-444-MJSA (6572), corrie.silvia@mjsa.org.

Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company (JM) and MJSA have signed a partnership agreement to enhance the insurance protection available to U.S.-based designers, makers, and suppliers. Through the partnership, MJSA exclusively endorses Jewelers Mutual’s commercial and personal jewelry insurance products. JM’s coverage options are specialized for all types of jewelry businesses, so MJSA members can create an insurance package that fits their unique business needs. (MJSA will continue to provide members of its New York State Workers Compensation Safety Group with insurance through a special program provided by D.A. Agliata & Associates.)

In addition, Jewelers Mutual will provide informational resources to help MJSA members ensure they have the proper protection for their businesses. MJSA members will receive a complimentary subscription to JM University, Jewelers Mutual’s virtual classroom, which provides interactive online training that educates the jewelry industry about safety, security, and insurance. In addition, JM will contribute security and insurance guidance to MJSA publications and at MJSA events on a regular basis. MJSA will provide information and education on the jewelry-making sector to JM.

"MJSA is delighted to form this important partnership with Jewelers Mutual," says David W. Cochran, MJSA president and CEO. "Insurance and security issues are vital to the safety and well-being of our members, and Jewelers Mutual’s history of support for our industry makes it an ideal partner."

"We are excited about our partnership with MJSA as it will further enhance the contributions that both of our organizations provide to the jewelry industry," says Darwin Copeman, CEO of Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company. "Jewelers Mutual is looking forward to providing MJSA members with access to insurance and security education, as well as gaining information and knowledge from this very important jewelry industry group."

For more information about Jewelers Mutual, click here. For more information about MJSA, click here.

MJSA and GE Money, the consumer lending unit of General Electric Co., have announced that they will partner to provide consumer financing with the GE Money Luxury program. The revolving credit card can be offered through MJSA retail members nationwide.

"We are delighted to add the GE Money consumer financing program to our roster of member benefits," says David W. Cochran, president and CEO of MJSA. "GE Money continues to invest in technology, point-of-sale capabilities, underwriting, and marketing, which is important in a changing credit environment. Its easy-to-use online application, competitive interest rates, and quick credit decisions will enable our members to increase sales to consumers and improve their cash flow with fast credit funding."

Consumer research shows that customers with a branded credit card buy more than they would with a traditional bank credit card, says GE Money, and the company will provide MJSA members with tools that help incorporate this type of financing into sales and marketing initiatives. Members can use GE Money’s web-based finance management portal, Business Center, to access all the sales, operational, marketing, and training tools they need at the click of a button. Tools include the online training resource center to help members learn more about the benefits of financing, how to use GE Money’s financing products, and how to sell with financing. Also available is the marketing toolkit, an online service that allows members to promote financing offers through targeted direct mail campaigns.

GE Money’s Luxury Card provides consumers attractive credit promotions that simplify payments for jewelry purchases. Additionally, cardholders can manage their accounts and pay bills online at gemoney.com, GE Money’s online customer service center.

"Since its incorporation in 1903, MJSA has helped jewelry makers and suppliers of all sizes maintain their competitive edge and achieve maximum profitability," says Regina Leadem, vice president of sales, GE Money - Sales Finance.  "We are proud to partner with MJSA to offer members a resource to help make purchases more affordable for consumers considering a jewelry purchase."

MJSA members can learn more about the Luxury program from GE Money by calling 1-866-838-0655 or by visiting gemoney.com/luxury.

MJSA has been honored with an APEX Award for Publication Excellence for the content and writing of its website. The annual competition recognizes outstanding achievement in graphic design, editorial content, and overall communications effectiveness and excellence.

More than 3,700 entries were evaluated overall for the prizes, with the Web & Intranet Sites category attracting 333 entries and garnering eight winners, including MJSA Online (mjsa.org). The competition is sponsored by Communications Concepts, the publisher of Writing That Works: The Business Communications Report.

Along with information about the association’s many money-saving benefits, MJSA Online features a wide range of frequently updated content on jewelry making and design. (Publisher of two magazines, MJSA Journal and the new MJSA Custom Design, the association specializes in carefully vetted articles, white papers, guides, and books for the jewelry making trade.) Among the site’s offerings:

• MJSA Journal Online is where visitors can find exclusive online articles related to jewelry making, design, marketing, and business management. Articles are posted regularly and often relate to or enhance the articles from the association’s print publications. The information is topical and gleaned from experts to ensure jewelry makers are receiving reliable advice.

• MJSA Bookstore features an A-Z archive to help trade visitors seeking education to find what they need, whether it’s a short how-to article or a book-length guide. The archive features hundreds of MJSA Journal articles and industry books on everything from alloying and bench tips to stone setting and wax works. Though the archive is searchable by all, MJSA members receive the articles free and discounts on the books.

• MJSA Public Affairs addresses the many legislative and regulatory issues with which jewelry makers grapple, from import/export guidance to easy-to-use guides, including ones addressing both lead and cadmium in children’s jewelry. The section also posts the latest state and federal legislative updates on various issues, most recently regarding which states have enacted laws regulating cadmium in children’s jewelry.

MJSA Online also includes a Career Center with a job board; searchable guides to trade shows and educational programs; and scholarship information. In addition, the site features the popular MJSA Buyer’s Guide Online, a search engine for supplies and services available from members. 

MJSA has entered into a new credit card processing partnership with Integrity Merchant Solutions, which can provide savings for the vast majority of members. "Our question to members is whether the monthly credit card processing fee they pay is as low as it can be," says David Cochran, MJSA President and CEO. "That’s what the representatives at Integrity Merchant Solutions ask all the time when they review a merchant’s statement—and the majority of time, their review shows the answer is no. That’s why we’re so delighted to bring their services to our members."

"We are able to show savings on about 80 to 90 percent of the statements we review," says David Blanco, director of business development at Integrity. "Many processing companies make their statements extremely difficult to read. They combine fees from different months, or they may show the merchant a competitive rate for plain-vanilla consumer cards, but charge higher [and often hidden] rates on rewards cards, keyed transactions, or business or corporate cards. They make it almost impossible for merchants to truly understand the rates they pay."

Integrity simplifies the switch to its service by offering conversion support, and avoiding a start-up charge, annual fee, or required equipment purchase. It also has no termination penalty, which "we believe is a sign of confidence in our ability to retain customers through sheer satisfaction and savings," says Blanco. "Our company is in the business of saving people money. We do this primarily by educating our customers and simplifying the process."

"Integrity’s ability to cut through the tangle of tiered fees, decipher lingo, and deliver potential savings—not to mention its nearly a decade of experience working with jewelry companies—is why MJSA has endorsed Integrity as a new benefit provider for credit card processing," says Cochran.

MJSA members can e-mail Blanco at Integrity Merchant Solutions for a credit card processing statement review, or call him at 866-257-3250. Jewelry makers and designers interested in joining MJSA can call 401-274-3840, 800-444-6572, or click here.

MJSA is the U.S. trade association for jewelry makers, designers, and related suppliers. It provides the resources to achieve professional excellence and maintain a competitive edge. For more information, call MJSA at 401-274-3840, 800-444-6572 or visit www.mjsa.org.

CounterSketch Studio, a collaboration between Gemvision and Stuller Inc., and the Neo Five Axis Mill, created by Artisan CNC, have been honored in the Seventh Annual MJSA Thinking Ahead Awards, which recognize products that make a difference in the way jewelry is made and sold. A panel of independent, international judges selects the annual Thinking Ahead winners, which are announced every December in MJSA Journal, the association’s flagship publication.

CounterSketch Studio features a design software program with a selection of 2,000 pre-loaded electronic jewelry models that retailers and their clients can customize with 3-D alterations, using a set of slider controls. Once the design is finalized, the system quotes pricing, and, with the customer’s agreement, the retailer sends the electronic file to be manufactured in eight days or less. Gemvision of Davenport, Iowa, built the design software, and Stuller Inc. of Lafayette, Louisiana, handles fulfillment of orders from the CAD designs that CounterSketch produces.

"I believe that CounterSketch and its ability to create a customizable virtual inventory will be seen in retrospect as the benchmark from which an entirely new category of jewelry marketing and manufacturing will spring," says one of the Thinking Ahead judges, Steven Adler, owner of A3DM in Portland, Oregon. "To date, this is the only Internet-based program that actually creates digital data on the fly from which a design can be output to wax or metal. The complexity and flexibility of the overall process on a technical level far surpasses anything currently available."

The Neo Five Axis Mill is a machine that makes wax models for jewelry casting. Unlike most jewelry-specific mills, which have four axes to allow them to cut wax from front-to-back and left-to-right, the Neo Five has a fifth axis that enables top-down, rotary milling to take place as well. All the milling can thus occur without the need for a jeweler to reposition or move the wax, lessening the chance for errors. Spearheaded by jewelry industry veterans Randy Hays and Michael Buckley of Artisan CNC in Woodstock, Georgia, the system was lauded by judges for being more jewelry-centric, less technically challenging to operate, and affordably priced compared with the cost of other five-axis mills. The unit is equipped to cut metal as well, for the production of steel dies and aluminum and brass metal molds.

Significant contributions to the creation of the Neo Five Axis Mill were made by technical consultant Mike Adams, a founder of Model Master (who worked on the machine itself), and Don Wiesmann, developer of ProtoWizard software, who worked on the design of the easy-to-use, Neo-specific ProtoWizard software that drives the system.

Judges for the MJSA Thinking Ahead Awards were Steven Adler of A3DM in Portland, Oregon; James Binnion of James Binnion Metal Arts in Bellingham, Washington; Michael Coan, chair of the jewelry design department at Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City; Christopher Corti of CoreGOLD in London; Linus Drogs of Au Enterprises in Berkley, Michigan; Dr. Joerg Fischer-Buehner of Legor Group Srl and Indutherm GmbH in Schwabisch Gmünd, Germany; Teresa Fryé of Techform Advanced Casting Technology in Portland, Oregon; Andrea Hill of Strategy/Werx in Campbellsport, Wisconsin; Charles Lewton-Brain, a goldsmith, author, and educator based in Calgary, Alberta, Canada; Jurgen Maerz, a consultant with Platinum Guild International USA based in Hawkins, Texas; Chris Ploof of Chris Ploof Studio in Pawtucket, Rhode Island; and J. Tyler Teague of JETT Research in Cumberland, Rhode Island.

"MJSA’s mandate is to advance professional excellence in jewelry making and design, and the Thinking Ahead awards are one of the cornerstones of the association’s efforts to ensure that such excellence is recognized," says David W. Cochran, president and CEO of MJSA. "Worth noting as well is that our two winning products are also made by companies that serve the growing custom design trend, among the most exciting movements in the jewelry industry today."

The winning products will be honored during an awards ceremony at MJSA Expo New York, March 13-15 at the Hilton New York in New York City.

To read more about the winning products, to MJSA Journal Online.

MJSA has selected Constellation Energy, the nation’s leading competitive electricity supplier, as its endorsed energy supplier. Constellation Energy will offer MJSA’s 1,500 members a portfolio of energy management products, ranging from competitive electricity supply to renewable energy certificates and demand response programs (which compensate users for reducing energy use during periods of peak demand). Constellation Energy’s products are designed to help MJSA’s members stabilize energy costs, without hampering their operations.

In addition, Constellation Energy will be among the sponsors of next month’s MJSA Expo New York, the industry’s largest and oldest trade show dedicated to jewelry design and manufacturing.  Attendance at the event will likely exceed 3,000.

"Constellation Energy’s national leadership and expertise in energy efficiency and renewable energy solutions is a perfect match for MJSA members’ commitment to professional excellence in jewelry making and design," said David Cochran, president and chief executive officer of MJSA. "We look forward to offering our members Constellation Energy’s array of products to help them make their businesses greener and more efficient."

Emily Neill, regional vice president for Constellation Energy, said, "We are excited about the opportunity to provide MJSA members with energy management products and services that will enable them to better manage energy use and costs, and take advantage of green energy opportunities."

About Constellation Energy

Constellation Energy (www.constellation.com) is a leading competitive supplier of power, natural gas and energy products and services for homes and businesses across the continental United States. It owns a diversified fleet of generating units, totaling approximately 12,000 megawatts of generating capacity, and is a leading advocate for clean, environmentally sustainable energy sources, such as solar power and nuclear energy. The company delivers electricity and natural gas through the Baltimore Gas and Electric Company (BGE), its regulated utility in Central Maryland. A FORTUNE 500 company headquartered in Baltimore, Constellation Energy had revenues of $14.3 billion in 2010.

MJSA recently announced the nine winners of the association’s 2011 Vision Awards competition, which recognizes excellence in jewelry design and technical skill. The winners were presented with their awards at a ceremony during MJSA Expo New York at the Hilton New York on March 14, and the winning entries were on display for thousands of buyers and exhibitors during the show.

Gregoré Morin of Gregoré Joailliers, Santa Barbara, California, and Julie Buckareff of JJ Buckar, Toronto, took honors in the Professional Design Excellence category-Morin for an objet d’art depiciting Hiruko, one of the seven lucky gods of Japan, and Buckar for "Bird’s Nest," a locket brooch made of 18k rose gold wire and 19k white gold leaves. Both entries also received honors in the Laser Distinction category, sponsored by LaserStar Technologies Corp.

The competition also recognized entries in four additional categories: Visionary Technical Solution, for designs that overcame technical challenges or explored the use of new materials; Gold Distinction, sponsored by Hoover & Strong; Custom Design Distinction, sponsored by Gemvision; and the Future of the Industry awards for students, sponsored by the MJSA Education Foundation. Rio Grande was the general sponsor of this year’s competition, and Instore and Metalsmith magazines were the media sponsors.

The winners of the 2011 MJSA Vision Awards are:

First Place, Design Excellence, and First Place, Laser Distinction:

Gregoré Morin of Gregoré Joailliers, Santa Barbara, California, for "Hiruko." an 18k white and yellow gold objet d’art measuring 43 mm tall and 62 mm wide. The diminutive sculpture of Hiruko, one of the seven lucky gods of Japan, features a Mexican fire opal body and a round white gold head that are joined by hidden magnets. The figure’s yellow gold traditional hat is topped by a Paraiba tourmaline and accented with diamonds along the rim and the bolo tie.

Second Place, Design Excellence; Second Place, Laser Distinction; and Second Place, Gold Distinction:

Julie Buckareff of JJ Buckar, Toronto, for "Bird’s Nest," an 18k rose gold and 19k white gold locket brooch featuring a Torré del Greco Italian hand-carved cameo shell. The leaves are set with 830 diamonds totaling 5.10 carats. The underside reveals two double-sided picture frames accented with pink and blue sapphires.

First Place Visionary Technical Solution:

Adam Neeley of Adam Neeley Fine Art Jewelry Inc., Laguna Beach, California, for "Captivate," a pin/pendant hand-fabricated in "Iris Gold." Featuring a seamless gradient created by fusion, the gold gradually transitions in color from 24k yellow gold through seven colors of gold to 9k white gold. The pin is accented with an 11.1 mm Tahitian peacock pearl.

Second Place, Visionary Technical Solution:

Edward Rosenberg and Mirella Connor of Edward Mirell, Deerfield Beach, Florida, for "Wave," a women’ black titanium s signet ring featuring an insert of sterling silver set with diamonds. Modeled in Matrix software, this ring was milled in wax, finessed, and cast in black titanium (Black Ti). The resulting ring was polished in some areas and sandblasted in others to accentuate the delicate wave pattern. Last, the insert was cold-connected after polishing and the setting of the diamonds.

First Place, Gold Distinction:

Barbara Heinrich of Barbara Heinrich Studio, Pittsford, New York, for "Blossom," an 18k yellow gold brooch. The piece features 14 diamonds totaling 0.21ct.

First Place, Custom Design Distinction:

Cynthia Zava of Cynthia Renée Inc., Carrboro, North Carolina, for "Torres del Paine," a ring featuring a 5.69 carat ice-blue tourmaline from Afghanistan. Zava made the ring for a client who, with her family, had visited Torres del Paine National Park at the mountainous southern tip of Patagonia in Chile. The stone mirrors the color of Mary’s daughter’s eyes, as well as the glacial lakes of Patagonia. Zava hand-carved the rose gold portions of the ring to echo the mountains of Torres del Paine, and used the horns of the ridges as prongs. She placed white gold "glaciers" between the ring’s peaks. The glaciers’ roughened surfaces were formed in wax from the combined fingerprints of each family member on the trip.

Second Place, Custom Design Distinction:

Doreen K. Sanborn, DKS Designs Inc., Fairfax, Virginia, for "Art Deco/Art Nouveau," a 14k gold necklace featuring a 38.60 carat aquamarine carved by Michael Dyber and a 13 mm Eyris blue abalone pearl from New Zealand. The gem is carved on one side in an Art Deco style, and the other side in an Art Nouveau style. Sanborn’s client had several specific requirements: she wanted to be able to wear either side of the gem as the front, to accompany the gem with an accent gemstone that could be added or removed, and to have the changes easy to make, yet the mechanics nearly invisible when the necklace was worn. Sanborn designed a removable and movable bar stockade setting for the pearl, and a stirrup attachment for the chain to attach to and detach from the aquamarine.

First Place, Future of the Industry Award for Students:

Young-eun Han, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York City, for "Industrial Ring," a layered ring. The inner layer is a band of stainless steel. The outside layer was made by carving the shape out of wax, making a silicone mold of the model, and then casting it with a mixture of cement and resin. The result is a piece that combines industrial materials yet is still light and comforting to the hand.

Second Place, Future of the Industry Award for Students:

Natalia Davidich, Kharkiv State Academy of Design & Arts, Ukraine, for "Brooklyn," a yellow gold ring with a white insertion in the center. Gold filaments are passed through special rounded loops to imitate the cables of a bridge. The reflection from the inside of the ring creates a unique visual effect. The edges of the ring are decorated in diamonds.

MJSA recognizes Vision Award winners through both publicity and advertising in industry publications, which in 2011 will include full-page ads in Instore, Metalsmith, and the association’s own MJSA Journal. Prizes included gift certificates of up to $500 (courtesy of Rio Grande), cash awards, book libraries, and, for student winners, scholarships of up to $1,000.

For more information, click here.

MJSA Expo New York opened to packed aisles as nearly 1,500 buyers, an 18 percent jump over last year’s first-day attendance, came in search of jewelry-making tools, technologies, supplies, and services. The buying continued throughout the show, which ran March 13-15 on three floors of the Hilton New York, spurring exhibitors to note the quality as well as the quantity of attendees.

"The quality of the buyers at this Expo was great—they’re here to do business, not just to look. They’re here to buy," reported exhibitors Robert and Sophie Berzofsky of RHB Enterprises in Newburyport, Massachusetts. Total attendance for the three days was nearly 3,000 unique buyers, many of whom came back over multiple days.

Produced by MJSA, the association dedicated to professional excellence in jewelry making and design, Expo New York is the largest and oldest trade show devoted to the interests and needs of the nation’s jewelry makers and designers—whether they’re working at a retail store, designing in a studio, providing contract services, or are involved in large-scale manufacturing.

"MJSA Expo benefits us immensely, as it gives us the opportunity to offer many demos to those seeking jewelry-making tools, supplies, and machinery," said Scott A. Petrillo, vice president of sales for Gesswein Co. in Bridgeport, Connecticut. "The show brings together attendees ranging from the manufacturer to the artisan, and they get to experience a first-hand look at the latest technology and services out on the market."

The explosion of consumer interest in custom-designed jewelry drew many retailers to the show, and many exhibitors were happy to welcome them. "This was our initial plunge into the retailer market, and we’ve had a tremendous response," said Eli Borochoff of Art-TEC Jewelry Designs Ltd. in New York City, which specializes in precision machine-set ring technology with a high-tech online interface that allows jewelers to customize ring designs. "We did exceptionally well...We certainly will repeat [as an exhibitor] next year."

In perhaps a sign of an improving economy, jewelry makers were also in the market for major equipment purchases, reported exhibitors. "Expo was very, very busy for us," said Gail Farias, communications director at LaserStar Technologies Corp. in Riverside, Rhode Island. "Many buyers did research online before they visited, so they knew a lot about our product already." Farias noted the most popular items for her company were its marking and engraving products and its iWeld laser systems.

Compliments were going both ways on the show floor. "The vendors at Expo are different from at other shows. You’re not just another person who’s walking by their booth," observed Tom McLaughlin of Lennon’s Jewelers in Clay, New York. "They were all concerned about what I wanted, and answered all my questions—they were genuinely interested in helping me out. It’s why I come back to Expo."

Attendees also flocked to Expo’s seminars, which ran throughout the three-day show. "The speakers were great, as well as all the different topics. A particular favorite for me was designer Chi Huynh of Galatea, who spoke about tapping into your creativity in designing jewelry," says McLaughlin.

Huynh’s presentation, on the last day of the show, was complemented by "It Takes Two Tuesday," where attendees could schedule free 20-minute, one-on-one consultations with experts such as Andrea Hill of StrategyWerx, Cindy Edelstein of the Jeweler’s Resource Bureau, Eugene Brill of Rio Grande, and several others. Hill also presented two popular "Success Strategies" seminars on Sunday and Monday, on creating a business plan and branding, and Brill moderated a panel on digital marketing, which also included experts Cathy Gins of Aromawear and Wendy Culpepper of Spice Marketing.

Other panel discussions focused on colored gemstone and bead trends, the ins and outs of subcontracting jewelry work, and working with alternative metals and other new materials. Ann Cahoon of Flying Marquis Studios presented two At the Bench Live sessions where she challenged common bench traditions, and explained different ways of working.

"The seminars were extremely helpful and I loved every one that I attended—and I only missed one!" says retailer Donna Wasilewski of The Seventh Stone in Coxsackie, New York. "I also thought the bench presentations by Ann Cahoon were wonderful and I attended both. I had a great time and really learned a lot of valuable information. Expo was very worth my time."

Exhibitors and attendees at Expo also got a chance to mingle and relax off the show floor. On Monday evening, the Expo cocktail party took place at the New York Athletic Club, where conversation flowed, the hor d’oeuvres were hot, and the cocktails were cold. "It was great to be able to relax, make connections, and thank everyone who made Expo such a success," said MJSA President and CEO David W. Cochran. Many partygoers then traveled down to New York’s fashionable Soho area for another party held by MJSA member Johnson Matthey, to celebrate its Sustainable Design Awards for new talent in platinum design (MJSA was a sponsor of the competition).

Retailer Tom McLaughlin probably summed it up best: "The show, the seminars, the vendors—Expo creates a great community atmosphere for people who do what I like to do, make jewelry! And all the resources MJSA offers are essential to my work. I loved being there."

For more information about MJSA Expo New York, go to www.mjsa.org, or call 1-800-444-MJSA (6572).

MJSA again presented its signature At the Bench Live demonstrations at JCK Las Vegas this year. The six sessions, which will take place June 4-6 in the Equipment, Technology, & Supplies (ETS) Pavilion, will emphasize techniques for creating custom designs, from how to enhance designs with handmade chain to combining handwork with CAD modeling.

On June 4, Ann Cahoon will present two sessions: "Using Handmade Chain in Custom Designs" (11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.) and "Mythbusters: Challenging Tradition at the Bench" (1:30 to 3 p.m.). In the first, she’ll present techniques for personalizing designs through handcrafted chain. In the second, she’ll focus on accepted bench procedures for everything from tool selection and equipment maintenance to safety precautions, and separate the hard facts from "tall tales." The owner of Flying Marquis Studio in the Greater Boston area, Cahoon is also an instructor at the Metalwerx School for Jewelry and Metal Arts, as well as a frequent contributor to MJSA Journal.

On June 5, award-winning custom designer Joel McFadden will offer new techniques that can speed up common tasks. In "New Techniques for Setting Princess-Cut Diamonds" (11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.), he will demonstrate a simplified process that reduces stress and ensures the stone’s points remain unharmed. Later that day, in "Tips for Finishing and Pre-Finishing Jewelry" (1:30 to 3 p.m.), he will show new techniques for quickly and efficiently finishing all areas of a piece to ensure everything shines. McFadden, the owner of JMD Custom Jewelry in Red Bank, New Jersey, has earned renown for his finishing and polishing work, and he is also one of the most experienced diamond setters in the United States. He has given training courses to other jewelers throughout the country and offers several videos on stone setting.

On June 6, Jim Tuttle will offer a two-part series on combining handwork with CAD modeling. "CAD at the Bench: Tips and Tricks, Part 1" (11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.) and "Advanced CAD at the Bench: Tips and Tricks, Part 2" (1:30 to 3 p.m.), he will show how the combination can speed production and lead to finely crafted pieces unattainable through handwork alone. Tuttle is the owner of Seattle-based Green Lake Jewelry Works, which specializes in custom design. With more than 20 years’ experience as a bench jeweler as well as a background in industrial engineering, he uses CAD/CAM for about 90 percent of his custom projects.

Related articles from MJSA Journal will also be available at the demonstrations, as will copies of both the Journal and its sister publication, MJSA Custom Jeweler. For more information about the events, go to mjsa.org, e-mail info@mjsa.org, or call 1-800-444-MJSA (6572).

JCK Las Vegas will take place June 3-6 at the Mandalay Bay Hotel and Convention Center. For more information about the show, go to jcklasvegasshow.com.

The ASTM F-15.24 Subcommittee on Children’s Jewelry, of which MJSA is a member, has developed a Children’s Jewelry Safety Standard in response to various state efforts to limit cadmium in children’s jewelry. The proposed standard, which was voted on by subcommittee members in April and early May, would establish  a 300 parts per million (ppm) total weight cadmium screen limit for children’s jewelry—both fashion and fine—with children defined as age 12 and under.

Among many detailed recommendations, the standard also proposes that, if the cadmium content tests above the 300 ppm screening level, jewelry samples should undergo a second round of testing that would involve either a "migration test," to determine how much cadmium might leach out if the jewelry is swallowed, or a saline test, which simulates what would occur if a child mouths or sucks on the jewelry.

Formed in June 2010, the subcommittee comprises retailers, manufacturers, testing labs, consumer groups, associations, and representatives of the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC). It is chaired by the Fashion Jewelry and Accessories Association (FJATA).

The voting to approve the standard closed on May 2, and the votes and comments are currently being tabulated and reviewed. If the standard is approved by a majority of subcomittee participants, it will then be considered by the ASTM F15 Consumer Products Committee (of which F-15.24 is a part), before final approval and adoption by ASTM. There is no specific timetable as to when these further actions will be completed.

ASTM is one of the largest voluntary standards development organizations in the world and a trusted source for technical standards for materials, products, systems, and services. The CPSC often incorporates relevant ASTM standards into its regulations, and it announced in February 2011 that it would defer the adoption of regulations on cadmium in children’s jewelry for at least six months, to wait for the ASTM F15-24 Subcommittee on Children’s Jewelry to complete its work.

MJSA Expo New York, the largest and longest-running trade show devoted to professional excellence in jewelry making and design, will take place March 11-13, 2012. It will once again return to the Hilton New York, a convenient midtown location that’s near the jewelry and diamond districts.

Expo New York  features suppliers of the tools, equipment, products, and services needed to design, craft, customize, and execute well-made jewelry products. The show can also assist jewelers who are experiencing a growing demand for custom design services, enabling them to connect with vendors offering a full complement of services and instore systems. Expo exhibitors range from suppliers of design systems to manufacturers offering prototypes to subcontractors who provide CAD/CAM and other customizing services. (Click here for a listing of 2011 exhibitors.)

"The vendors at Expo are different from at other shows. They really want to help you. You’re not just another person who’s walking by their booth," observed Tom McLaughlin of Lennon’s Jewelers in Clay, New York. "They were all concerned about what I wanted, and answered all my questions—they were genuinely interested in helping me out. That’s not necessarily true at other shows. It’s why I come back to Expo."

The Expo show team and Advisory Board are currently planning for three days of seminars and social events, as well as MJSA’s signature At the Bench Live demonstrations.

For more information about exhibiting or attending MJSA Expo New York, contact MJSA Sales Manager Corrie Silvia at corrie.silvia@mjsa.org, 1-401-274-3840 (ext. 3041) or 1-800-444-MJSA (6572).

To help retailers take advantage of the increasing demand for customized jewelry, MJSA has introduced a new Custom Jeweler membership level. The affordably priced membership includes free subscriptions to the monthly MJSA Journal and quarterly MJSA Custom Jeweler; free archived articles from both publications; and discounts on the books of MJSA Press and other leading industry publications—including a significant discount on David Geller’s renowned pricing guide, Geller’s Blue Book to Jewelry Repair & Design.

These informational resources facilitate peer-to-peer learning among MJSA’s community of custom jewelers and jewelry retailers, one of the key benefits of membership. In addition, Custom Jeweler members will be able to use the MJSA logo as an indication of their commitment to industry best practices in jewelry making and design.

The new membership comes at a time when custom design has become an area of growth for many retailers. In the most recent Cost of Doing Business Report published by Jewelers of America, the "designer/artist/custom jewelers" category was the only one in which median sales increased—by 3.1 percent. And as industry analyst Ken Gassman notes, the twenty-something "Millennial" generation has a high interest in personalized products, which suggests continued growth for retailers who offer custom services, particularly in bridal.

"We have received numerous requests from retailers who want to benefit from this trend, but don’t know where to begin," says David W. Cochran, MJSA president/CEO. "Because MJSA is the association focused on how to design and make outstanding jewelry, we are in a unique position to provide the resources they need. Our new Custom Jeweler membership category will help retailers get started on the road to customization."

Custom Jeweler members can also upgrade at any time to MJSA’s Retail Membership category. This higher level of membership allows retailers to gain access to additional services the association offers, including deep discounts on FedEx shipping, store branded consumer financing programs through GE Money, and affordable press release preparation through the PR & Pix program. There are also discounts on subcontracting services (such as CAD/CAM), and various other discounted supplies and services for custom jewelers, provided by MJSA suppliers that participate in the MJSA Member-to-Member program.

To learn more, contact MJSA at 1-800-444-MJSA 96572), e-mail info@mjsa.org, or visit MJSA Online at mjsa.org.  MJSA will also be at JCK Las Vegas, Booth B6148 in the ET&S Pavilion. In addition, the association will be presenting  its signature At the Bench Live demonstrations twice daily at ET&S Booth 6786-targeted to custom jewelers.

Discounted rooms at the Hilton New York are now available for 2012 MJSA Expo New York attendees, at a  special rate of $249 a night (single/double). Expo New York, the largest and oldest trade show dedicated to professional excellence in jewelry making and design, will take place at the Hilton March 11-13. The discounted rooms are available for the nights of March 8 through March 14, and reservations will be taken on a first-come, first-served basis.

Reservations must be made by Feb. 10 to receive the special rates. For the past two years, the rooms have sold out months in advance of the show, so early reservations are encouraged.

Attendees can apply online by clicking here, or they can call the Hilton directly at 1-800-HILTONS and mention the MJSA rate.

For more information about MJSA Expo New York, click here.

MJSA is now preparing two publications that will help jewelry makers and designers make the best decisions when sourcing supplies and services: the MJSA Buyer’s Resource and the MJSA Guide to Contract Service Providers.

Published biennially, the MJSA Buyer’s Resource is a "smart shopping" guide that offers insights into everything from determining ROI for large equipment purchases to choosing and working with subcontractors.  It also lists all current MJSA members with full contact information, so readers can easily source needed products and services.

In September, MJSA will publish the second volume of the Buyer’s Resource. (To order Volume One, click here.)  The 2011 edition will feature articles on the following topics:

• Checkpoints to Ensure Purchased Equipment Meets a Company’s Needs

• Choosing and Outfitting a Bench: The Basics

• A Guide to Alternative Metals

• How to Ensure Refining Returns Meet Expectations

• How Companies Can Protect Themselves when Subcontracting Work

• Tips for Buying Gemstones

• Buying Beads: A Glossary of Terms

• Shopping for Custom Components

To further help jewelry makers and designers source contract services, MJSA will publish a pdf supplement focused specifically on commonly needed services. The MJSA Guide to Contract Service Providers will list MJSA member companies offering such key services as assaying, computer-aided design and manufacturing, casting, engraving, model making, refining, stamping, stone setting, and overall contract manufacturing. In addition to member contact information, it will include detailed information about the types of services offered, specific policies (e.g., minimum order requirements), and specific capabilities.

For information about ordering either publication, e-mail MJSA or call 1-800-444-MJSA (6572). For advertising details, e-mail Sales Manager Corrie Silvia or call her at 1-800-444-MJSA, ext. 3041.

MJSA, the U.S. trade association dedicated to professional excellence in jewelry making and design, was recently honored with two APEX Awards for Publication Excellence: One for its overall publications program, and the other for an in-depth "State of the Industry" analysis that appeared in the June 2010 issue of MJSA Journal. The article was written by MJSA Journal Editor in Chief Tina Wojtkielo Snyder.

Among the publications recognized were MJSA Journal, the association’s flagship monthly magazine providing technical and business information on jewelry making and design; MJSA Custom Jeweler, its quarterly publication focused on the creation and sale of personalized jewelry designs; and MJSA Online (mjsa.org), which also won a 2010 APEX Award for website content and writing.

The "State of the Industry" report focused on five trends-metals prices, custom design, emerging retail experiences, the ever-expanding influence of the Internet, and eco-awareness and corporate social responsibility-and offered "strategies for success" that readers could apply in each of those areas. (Copies of the article in the MJSA Bookstore at mjsa.org.)

The APEX competition, which annually recognizes editorial and design achievement, drew more than 3,300 entries for its 2011 prizes. It is sponsored by Communications Concepts, the publisher of Writing That Works: The Business Communications Report.

MJSA has published The MJSA Handbook on Effective Pricing: Determining Expenses, Selling Value, and Maximizing Profits. The PDF publication contains the best of past MJSA Journal and MJSA Custom Jeweler articles on this perennially popular subject, offering strategies for pricing both finished jewelry and repair work.

The Handbook includes best practices for cost accounting (including a step-by-step guide to factoring in overhead costs, one of the most-overlooked areas in pricing); pricing uniqueness in a design, including custom work; and turning a repair operation into a profit center. It also provides successful strategies developed by working designers and jewelers, such as Susan Helmich, Mark Morrell, and renowned pricing guru David Geller.

The MJSA Handbook on Effective Pricing is free to MJSA members, can be downloaded from the MJSA website. To learn more, click here.

Non-members can order the Handbook through the online MJSA Bookstore for $9.95.

The MJSA Education Foundation has awarded scholarships to six students who are currently pursuing degrees in jewelry making and design, and who all show exceptional talent and promise for successful professional careers. They are:

Tamara Allison ($1,500 scholarship) of Wichita Falls, Texas, who is completing a BFA in Metals and Jewelry at Midwestern State University, also in Wichita Falls. She plans to graduate in December of this year.

Leslie Boyd ($1,500 scholarship) of Brooklyn, New York, who is working toward an MFA in Jewelry and Metalsmithing at Rhode Island School of Design in Providence, Rhode Island. She expects to graduate in 2013.

Carol Salisbury ($1,500 scholarship) of Lawrence, Kansas, who is pursuing an MFA in Metalsmithing and Jewelry at the University of Kansas, also in Lawrence. The recipient of three previous Foundation scholarships, she expects to graduate in May 2012.

Nicole D’Entremont ($800 scholarship) of Medford, Massachusetts, who is pursuing a BFA in Fine Arts at the School of the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. She plans to graduate in May 2012.

Maresha Robinson ($800 scholarship) of Oakland, California, who is seeking a Graduate Bench Jeweler Diploma from the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts in San Francisco. She expects to complete her diploma requirements by the summer of 2012.

Shalena White ($800 scholarship) of Austin, Texas, who is working toward an MFA in Studio Art: Metals/Jewelry at the University of Texas at Austin. She expects to graduate in 2014.

Since 1997, the MJSA Education Foundation, a 501(c) 3 subsidiary of MJSA, has awarded nearly $160,000 in scholarships to students enrolled in jewelry design, jewelry making, or other jewelry-related degree programs at colleges, universities, and technical schools throughout the United States. Funds for the scholarships are generated through the MJSA Education Foundation Scholarship Group, which consists of six permanent endowment funds managed by the Rhode Island Community Foundation on behalf of MJSA and the MJSA Education Foundation.

Any student enrolled in a jewelry program, who intends to pursue a career in the jewelry industry, and who can demonstrate financial need is eligible to apply for an MJSA Education Foundation scholarship. Applicants are assessed on the basis of course of study, academics, career plans, recommendations, and industry experience. Students must be U.S. citizens.

To learn more, visit the MJSA Career Center.

Golfers at the recent Providence Jewelers Club (PJC) Golf Tournament did more than have a good time when they teed off this past Tuesday; they also helped to raise $6,000 for the MJSA Education Foundation. The PJC donated all proceeds—including money raised from a raffle held during the event—to the Foundation.

Since 1997, the MJSA Education Foundation, a 501(c) 3 subsidiary of MJSA, has awarded nearly $160,000 in scholarships to students enrolled in jewelry design, jewelry making, or other jewelry-related degree programs at colleges, universities, and technical schools throughout the United States. Funds for the scholarships are generated through the MJSA Education Foundation Scholarship Group, which consists of six permanent endowment funds managed by the Rhode Island Community Foundation on behalf of MJSA and the MJSA Education Foundation.

Any student enrolled in a jewelry program, who intends to pursue a career in the jewelry industry, and who can demonstrate financial need is eligible to apply for an MJSA Education Foundation scholarship. Applicants are assessed on the basis of course of study, academics, career plans, recommendations, and industry experience. Students must be U.S. citizens.

To learn more about the Foundation, click here.

For more information about the PJC, click here. 

MJSA Journal Editor in Chief Tina Wojtkielo Snyder presented a report on the State of the Jewelry Industry to an audience of custom jewelers, designers, and retail store owners at The Portland Jewelry Symposium on Oct. 24 in Portland, Oregon. She discussed major trends impacting jewelry makers and retailers today, and offered strategies for successfully competing in the current market. Specific areas of discussion included high metals prices, the influence of the Internet on the jewelry business, eco-awareness, and the rise of Gen Y.

The presentation was based on her award-winning overview, "State of the Industry," which appeared in the June 2010 issue of MJSA Journal. To read online excerpts, click here.

Other industry experts who spoke at the one-day educational event included Michael Bondanza of Michael Bondanza Inc., Joerg Fischer-Buehner of Legor, Stewart Grice of Hoover & Strong, Andrea Hill of StrategyWerx, Mark Mann of GIA, and Jim Tuttle of Green Lake Jewelry Works.

For more information, visit portlandjewelrysymposium.com.

As part of its continuing digital advancements, MJSA has re- designed its Buyer’s Guide Online search engine. The Guide’s new features enable not only easier access to MJSA members’ supplies and services, but also more detailed information to help buyers choose wisely. Among the improvements:

• More details about MJSA member companies, including minimum order requirements, special discounts and offers, and featured products and services.

• A "Buyer’s Tips" section that offers trend forecasts and peer-reviewed technical articles to help buyers make the best purchasing decisions.

• A New Products section to showcase members’ latest offerings.

• The expanded and strictly enforced MJSA Code of Ethics, which sellers agree to uphold upon joining the association.

The MJSA Buyer’s Guide Online continues to provide a complete range of jewelry-related products and services, enabling searches for specific types of tools and equipment, metals, findings and chain, gemstones and beads, contract and business services, and packaging, displays, and finished jewelry.

"One of our primary goals as an association is to help our members better connect with buyers, and that includes through new digital opportunities," says David W. Cochran, president/CEO of MJSA. "The expanded Buyer’s Guide Online represents our latest step in this area. Members now have more opportunities to differentiate themselves from their competitors, and buyers have easier searches and more information to make the best purchasing decisions. They also have the confidence in knowing they’re dealing with companies that have agreed to abide by the highest ethical standards, and that any issues will be resolved promptly and fairly through our enforcement policy."

That buying experience is also enhanced through the new MJSA Buyer’s Tips sections, which include both public and members-only articles. Among the offerings:

• A quality checklist for purchasing finished jewelry.

• Guidelines for calculating the return on investment in capital purchases, as well as a checklist for evaluating tools and equipment.

• Best practices for ordering metals and component parts.

• Glossaries of chain and findings terminology, to ensure buyers know all of their options.

• Guidelines to gem treatments.

Future improvements will include a section devoted to contract services, including detailed information about member companies’ capabilities.

Click here to go to the new MJSA Buyer’s Guide Online. For more information, contact MJSA Membership Coordinator Travis Searle at travis.searle@mjsa.org, or call 1-800-444-MJSA (6572).

MJSA is partnering with the Jeweler’s Resource Bureau (JRB) and StrategyWerx on the Future of Design contest, a "business incubator" competition for jewelry designers. The winner of the contest will be chosen during a live event on the last day of the 2012 MJSA Expo New York, March 11-13.

Unlike other jewelry contests, the Future of Design competition is designed to evaluate business development skills, not just design acumen. "Over the years I have found that more often than not, designers need help with the business side of their occupations," says JRB President Cindy Edelstein, whose marketing firm specializes in the designer sector of the jewelry industry. "And while the winner of this contest obviously receives the greatest amount of guidance, every entrant derives a benefit and learns valuable business skills."

"The impact of sound advice and a network of supporters can make all the difference," says Andrea Hill, CEO of StrategyWerx, a consultancy that helps small businesses gain competitiveness. "The learning curve of success can be very steep and weʼre excited to shorten it for the right folks."

Here’s how the Future of Design Contest works:

• Jewelry designers submit a detailed application/questionnaire that contains the key elements of a business plan. The application is a teaching tool in which designers gather and submit the kind of information needed for professional business planning. All information is kept strictly confidential.

• Six semi-finalists are chosen to receive additional mentoring from one of a group of established designers, including Erica Courtney, Gurhan, Todd Reed, Lisa Jenks, Robert Lee Morris, and Penny Preville. Semi-finalists also received a feature article on NationalJeweler.com.

• Three finalists are chosen and win a trip to NYC and participation in the live finale at MJSA Expo NY 2012 on March .

• The winner receives consulting on strategy, financials, and technology by StrategyWerx; a year of manufacturing services by Fusion Jewelry; a year of sales representation by Viewpoint; sales training and retail introductions by Performance Concepts; a booth in the Designer Showcase at the JA NY Show; and a booth in globalDESIGN, JRB’s international showcase for jewelry designers, held in Philadelphia concurrent with the Buyer’s Market of American Craft.

Go to http://www.futureofdesigncontest.com/ for more information.

Buyers can now register online to attend the 2012 MJSA Expo New York, which will run March 11-13 at the Hilton New York in New York City. The oldest and largest U.S. trade show dedicated to jewelry making and design, the Expo features three floors of the latest tools, technologies, supplies, and services to help buyers achieve professonal excellence.

Advance registration is free. Anyone who registers prior to March 1 will receive a badge by mail; all others may pick up their badges on-site. Badges will be mailed starting Feb. 21.

MJSA Expo New York is open to the trade only, and all attendeees are required to present a photo and business ID Examples of a business ID include business cards, paycheck stubs, business licenses, resale licenses, or invoices that indicate you buy or sell jewelry products, related crafts, or supplies.  No one under 16 years of age (including infants) will be admitted.

To register, click here.

Expo buyers and exhibitors can also reserve rooms in the Hilton at a discounted nightly rate of $249 for single/double occupancy. Rooms are available on a first-come, first-served basis until Feb. 10 or until the group block is sold out. To make reservations, click here or call 1-800-HILTONS and mention the MJSA rate.

MJSA will present its signature At the Bench Live demonstrations at the 2012 AGTA GemFair Tucson, Jan. 31 through Feb. 5 at the Tucson Convention Center. The interactive sessions will run daily and feature renowned artisans showing bench and design techniques that attendees can readily apply to their own operations. Related articles from MJSA Journal, the association’s flagship monthly magazine, will be distributed at each session.

The sessions are sponsored by the American Gem Trade Association, and the Bench and Tool Sponsor is the Jewelry Training Center in Colorado Springs, CO. The schedule includes:

January 31
Step to It:
Tricks for Soldering Multiple Joints in Silver
Presenter: Arthur Anton Skuratowicz, Director of Education at the Jewelry Training Center

Silver has become the metal of choice for many jewelry makers and designers seeking affordable price points. However, the metal poses its own challenges, not the least of which is how to solder several joints in proximity-without melting previously attachments. Attendees will learn how to ensure their silver soldering goes smoothly, enabling them to create clean, secure attachments.

February 1
History Detective:
How to Identify Previous Repairs in Jewelry
Presenter: Arthur Anton Skuratowicz, Director of Education at the Jewelry Training Center

It happens all the time: A jeweler goes to repair a piece of jewelry, only to discover that the piece had already undergone previous repairs-and the work was less than stellar. At best, this creates a few new headaches; at worst, it leads to the jewelry being severely damaged. Attendees will learn how to identify these "danger points" before it’s too late.

February 2
Working with Gemstones: The Designer’s Challenges
Presenter: Alishan Halebian, award-winning goldsmith/designer

When faced with designing a piece around a gemstone-especially one with an unusual cut or other uncommon characteristic-designers and goldsmiths have a double-edged challenge: Create a design that brings out the gem’s unique aspects, but also ensure the stone is securely set and protected. Award-winning designer and master goldsmith Alishan Halebian will demonstrate how he accomplishes both tasks to best ensure the gem is exquisitely showcased.

February 3
Mythbusters: Challenging Tradition at the Bench
Presenter: Ann Cahoon, designer/goldsmith, Flying Marquis Studio

Venerable traditions have built up regarding how bench jewelers should go about their craft. And, like all traditions, some may be true-and some may be little more than tall tales. This session will separate fact from myth, and attendees will come away with new insights into accepted procedures for equipment maintenance, the selection of tools for specific tasks, or simple safety procedures.

February 4
Using Handmade Chain in Custom Designs
Presenter: Ann Cahoon, designer/goldsmith, Flying Marquis Studio

As consumer demand for custom jewelry grows, so too are the ways in which jewelers are creating unique, personalized pieces. One method to add personalization is through the use of handmade chain. Attendees will discover techniques for creating handcrafted chain to complement specific custom designs.

February 5
Compound Interest:
Creating the Optimum Polish on Metals
Presenter: Arthur Anton Skuratowicz, Director of Education at the Jewelry Training Center

When it comes to the finishing and polishing of jewelry, you need to match your methods and metals to achieve the maximum shine. Attendees will learn how to apply various buffing compounds and polishing techniques to achieve the look they want.

MJSA’s At the Bench Live sessions will run daily from 11:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. outside the Grand Ballroom in the Tucson Convention Center. Click here for more about MJSA At the Bench Live sessions.

MJSA has honored two products—a nanoceramic e-coating and an automated wax injection system—with its annual Thinking Ahead Awards. Now in its eighth year, the MJSA Thinking Ahead Awards program recognizes products that are making a difference in the way jewelry is being made and sold. The winners are selected by an international panel of independent judges, all of whom are renowned for their expertise in jewelry making and design. In-depth articles on both products appear in the November 2011 issue of MJSA Journal, the association’s flagship magazine.

The judges this year selected Kliar, an e-coating developed by the Legor Group, an international supplier of alloys, tools, equipment, and plating technology that is based in Bressanvido, Italy. Kliar enables jewelry makers and designers to easily add vibrant colors to both precious and base metals, and it also can serve as a tarnish inhibitor. Available in 17 hues as well as a transparent coating, it can be applied in the shop with basic equipment (the method is similar to rhodium plating).

"This comes at an important time," said judge Andrea Hill of Hill Management Consulting’s StrategyWerx in Campbellsport, Wisconsin. "Consumers are increasingly interested in different colors and treatments of metals. At the same time, manufacturers are looking for ways to reduce dependence on gold and platinum as their primary manufacturing metals, due to the high costs."

"The Kliar process seems to exhibit significantly greater tarnish resistance than other existing processes," said judge James Binnion of James Binnion Metal Arts in Bellingham, Washington. "Given the ongoing increase in metals prices, this will help silver gain more customer acceptance, as tarnish is one of the main negative issues with some consumers."

The judges also named as a winner the Etype automated wax injection system developed by Castel Technologies in Hod Hasharon, Israel. The system features a motorized conveyor belt that brings bar-coded molds to an injection station, where they are automatically filled with wax based on computerized parameters. The molds are then returned by conveyor to workers who remove the wax. Depending on the number of injectors being used, the Etype can produce from 360 to about 1,250 waxes per hour.

Judge Chris Ploof of Chris Ploof Studio in Pawtucket, Rhode Island, noted that the Etype can help both large and small shops. "The equipment is great for large manufacturers, as it can replace multiple technicians with one person," he said. "It’s also great for small manufacturers, allowing one person to do the work of several."

In addition to the above judges, this year’s panel also included Steven Adler of A3DM in Portland, Oregon; Michael Coan of the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City; Dr. Christopher W. Corti of CoreGold in London; Linus Drogs of Au Enterprises in Berkley, Michigan; goldsmith/educator Charles Lewton-Brain of Calgary, Alberta, Canada; Jurgen J. Maerz of The Platinum Expert Consulting Service in Hawkins, Texas; and J. Tyler Teague of JETT Research in Johnson City, Tennessee.

The winners of the Thinking Ahead Awards will be honored at a special ceremony during the 2012 MJSA Expo New York trade show, which will run March 11-13 at the Hilton New York in New York City. For more information, or to purchase a copy of the November MJSA Journal, go to mjsa.org or call 1-800-444-MJSA (6572).

From working with subcontractors to capitalizing on current consumer trends, the 2012 MJSA Expo New York seminars will once again offer insights into all aspects of jewelry making and design. It will also feature the finale of the first Future of Design "business incubator" competition, in which the winner will receive a prize package of business servies and promotional opportunities woth $250,000.

Developed by the Jeweler’s Resource Bureau (JRB) and StrategyWerx, the Future  of Design contest will evaluate jewelry designers’ business development skills, not just design acumen. Six semi-finalists will be interviewed by designers Erica Courtney, Gurhan, Todd Reed, Lisa Jenks, Robert Lee Morris, and Penny Preville. From that round, three finalists will be chosen to give short presentations at Expo New York to five judges: Andrea Hill of StrategyWerx, Cindy Edelstein of the Jeweler’s Resource Bureau, Kate Peterson of Performance Concepts, Jim DeMattei of Viewpoint Showrooms, and manufacturer Mendel Rotenberg of Induscan.

The Expo lineup also includes:

Sunday, March 11

Selling Your Message-No Matter the Metal
Practical examples of how noted designers have raised the profiles of their brands, by delivering compelling stories and messages that turn heads and drive sales. Moderator: Andrea Hill, StrategyWerx. Panelists: Robin Haley, Robin Haley Jewelry; Gloria Maccaroni, Gurhan; Alex Woo, Alex Woo Inc.; Killian Rieder, Chamilia.

MJSA’s At the Bench Live: The Finishing Touch
How to ensure all areas of a finished piece are finished and polished to perfection. Presenter: Joel McFadden, JMB Custom Jewelry. Bench and Tool Sponsor: Stuller Inc.

Subcontracting Jewelry Work
How to subcontract effectively, from soliciting recommendations, comparing subcontractors, and agreeing on payment terms to crafting clear communications and managing expectations. Moderator: Tina Snyder, MJSA. Panelists: Kitty Hundley, Sierra Design Studio; Nancy Schuring, Devon Fine Jewelry; Rosemarie Billanti, Billanti Casting Co. Inc.; Jane Bohan, Jane Bohan Inc.

Finding Inspiration
Techniques for stoking creativity. Presenter: Alishan Halebian, Alishan.

Monday, March 12

MJSA Awards Presentation
Honoring the recipients of the eighth annual MJSA Thinking Ahead Awards and the 2012 MJSA Vision Awards.

By the Numbers: What’s Ahead for the Jewelry Industry
How to capitalize on the current trends outlined in a new report by Ken Gassman of the Jewelry Industry Research Institute. Presenter: Andrea Hill, StrategyWerx.

MJSA’s At the Bench Live: Secret Shop Weapons
The favorite tools of noted jewelers and designers, and how they effectively apply them. Based on the new MJSA Press book, Secret Shop Weapons, which will be available at a discounted price for attendees. Presenter: Ann Cahoon, Flying Marquis Studio. Bench and Tool Sponsor: Stuller Inc.

Critique My Website!
An analysis of how several well-trafficked websites create a user-friendly experience and gets noticed by search engines. Attendees will also be able to submit their own websites for possible critique. Moderator Eugene Brill, Rio Grande. Panelists: Michael Schechter, Honora Pearls; Jennifer Gandia, Greenwich Jewelers; Kathy Maurella, Greenwich Jewelers website consultant.

Green Shop Practices
How jewelry makers and designers can run more socially responsible and environmentally friendly shops. Presenter: Christine Dhein, Revere Academy of Jewelry; editor, Green Jewelry News.

For complete information on all seminars, click here.

MJSA recently re-elected the officers on its board to a second term, and also welcomed two new directors.

Lee Krombholz (right, top) is the third-generation owner of Krombholz Jewelers and Just Like You Designs, a leading retailer and design studio in Cincinnati. An award-winning designer who specializes in custom work, he is a past president of the Mid-America Jewelers Association, and currently serves on its advisory board. He also serves on the MJSA Custom Design Advisory Council, and has contributed to or been featured in multiple MJSA Journal and MJSA Custom Jeweler articles about custom design.

Bimal Das (right, bottom) is director of ScotiaMocatta, the precious metals division of the Scotiabank Group and a global leader in precious metals trading and finance. He has been with the bank since 1998, working in offices in Mumbai, New Delhi, Hyderabad, and Bangalore before being transferred to New York in January 2006. Prior to joining the Scotiabank Group, he was a currency trader at Asia Fx Pte. Ltd., a privately held trading firm based in Chennai, India.

In addition, David Pillow, formerly with Zale, returned to the board as president of Innovative Design Group in Richland Hills, Texas.

Re-elected as officers were David Meleski (Richline Group), chair; Edward DeCristofaro (LDC Inc.), vice chair; Michael Toback (Myron Toback Co.), vice chair; Stuart Lee (Sterling Jewelers), secretary; Ann Arnold (Lieberfarb Corp.), treasurer; and Richard Powers (Cookson), MJSA Education Foundation chair.

For a full list of MJSA directors, click here.

Several trade groups, including MJSA, have issued a consumer alert warning of increased supplies of glass-filled rubies being sold without the proper disclosure. The alert noted that although the stones have "significant fissures filled with relatively large quantities of lead glass," they are being sold as natural rubies in U.S. department stores and elsewhere.

In addition to MJSA, the other industry groups that signed on to the alert were the Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC), the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA),  American Gemological Laboratories, Gem Research Swisslab, and the New York Gemstone Association.

Note: To read the MJSA Tech Sheet "Tips for Handling Glass-Filled Rubies," click here.

The issue of glass-filled rubies has been an issue for several years. In the January 2008 MJSA Journal, Gem News columnist Deborah Yonick noted that the problem could be traced to the crackdown on Burmese gems in the early 2000s. Following the passage of the Burmese Freedom and Democracy Act of 2003, which effectively banned the importation into the United States of any Burmese product (including rubies), buyers began turning to new ruby sources, primarily Madagascar. However, while some of the gem rough was attractive, much of it was riddled with cracks and fissures.

"To bring to market more affordable versions of higher-price goods that have no to mild treatment, " she wrote, "dealers in gem-cutting centers began enhancing poor-quality rubies by infusing high-lead-content glass into fractures-adapting a treatment from the emerald and diamond trades, [according to] Russ Shor, market analyst for GIA." The glass-filled rubies had flooded the market for three years, and buyers at that time were being cautioned to insist on full disclosure information-a warning being reiterated today.

For jewelers who have to work on pieces that contain glass-filled rubies, the challenges can be daunting. "Most glass-filled rubies on the market were probably too included or fragile to be faceted in the first place," says Arthur Skuratowicz, director of the Jewelry Training Center in Colorado Springs, Colorado, and author of the MJSA Tech Sheet noted earlier. "Although they may appear legitimate to the naked eye, they are heavily fracture-filled with a highly unstable material that does not hold up to even the most common jewelry practices."

Note: To read the MJSA Tech Sheet "Tips for Handling Glass-Filled Rubies," click here.

According to the consumer alert, while the FTC Guides do not specify the exact wording to be used to identify these products or to disclose treatments, some leading international gemological laboratories are using classifications such as "composite lead glass filled ruby" or "hybrid lead glass filled ruby." For a vast majority of this material the Gemological Institute of America will not issue "ruby" reports, instead issuing identification reports containing the description "a manufactured product" with "special care required." The AGTA has determined to classify and describe this product as "composite lead glass filled corundum/red-special care required."

The alert also noted that, depending on the level of treatment and the lead-glass filling to which this material has been subject, and based on the definition of the "gemstone" contained in the FTC Guides, it may be improper to use the term "ruby" to describe these products.

In response to increasing demand for help in finding subcontracting assitance, MJSA has launched the MJSA Guide to Subcontractors. Available both online and as a PDF handbook, the Guide lists MJSA members providing commonly requested contract services, such as stone setting, casting, and CAD/CAM. It also includes detailed information about each company-from minimum order requirements to whether it provides melee-to help buyers in their decision-making.

In addition, the Guide offers MJSA members free access to articles about how to best choose and work with a subcontractor.

"As the primary resource for information about jewelry making and design, MJSA receives many requests from jewelry manufacturers, designers, and especially retail custom jewelers who want help in locating a subcontractor," says David W. Cochran, MJSA president/CEO. "They may need to expand their capabilities, increase their production capacity, or just better control costs. With the MJSA Guide to Subcontractors, they now have a handy reference for the information needed to achieve their goals, and to develop excellent working relationships with their contract service providers."

In total, the Guide lists 10 contract service categories: assaying, CAD design, CAM manufacturing, casting, engraving, model making, refining, stamping, stone setting, and general contract manufacturing. The articles cover such issues as finding and choosing subcontractors, developing a good working relationship with them, and understanding related legal and financial issues. It also offers insights into specific processes, such as determining whether to stamp or to cast, and understanding a refiner’s metal sampling processes.

The online Guide to Subcontractors is part of the enhanced MJSA Buyer’s Guide Online, which provides a complete range of jewelry-related products and services, including tools and equipment, metals, findings and chain, gemstones and beads, contract and business services, and packaging, displays, and finished jewelry.

MJSA members can download the PDF handbook from the MJSA website, free of charge. Non-members can purchase the Guide for $12.95 in the MJSA Bookstore.

Click here to go to the online MJSA Guide to Subcontractors.

Click here to order the PDF version in the MJSA Bookstore.

Adam Neeley of Adam Neeley Fine Art Jewelry in Laguna Beach, California, won first place in the professional Design Excellence category of the 2012 Vision Awards competition, which recognizes outstanding jewelry design prowess and technical skill. He is one of 13 designers who will be honored at MJSA Expo New York, which runs March 11-13 at the Hilton New York.

The awards this year include Design Excellence and Visionary Technical Solution, in addition to a variety of Distinction Categories, including Gold, Laser, Palladium, Platinum, and Custom Design, the latter to honor the growing number of jewelers who are designing their own jewelry for clients. In addition, a "Future of the Industry" award recognizes the designs of students enrolled in jewelry making and design programs.

The winners are:

DESIGN EXCELLENCE

1st Place—Adam Neeley of Adam Neeley Fine Art Jewelry in Laguna Beach, California, for Moonlight and Caviar ring showcasing a 12 mm AAA South Sea pearl, which sits upon 2.52 tcw of pavé-set black diamonds. The ring was crafted in 14k X1 white gold and set with 1.20 tcw of white diamonds around the entire trim. This design was fully realized using CAD technology to create the precise, geometric forms.  

2nd Place—Gregoré Morin of Gregoré Joailliers in Santa Barbara, California, for Bamboo earrings with chrysophrase, 950 platinum, Mexican fire opal, and white and black diamonds.

VISIONARY TECHNICAL SOLUTION

1st Place—Edward Mirell of Edward Mirell in Deerfield Beach, Florida, for Safari Gold & Black Ti Ring with black titanium and 14k gold, featuring the co-casting of contemporary and precious metals using new technology.  

2nd Place—Julie Buckareff of JJ Buckar in Toronto for Blue Zircon Diamond Rope ring with 950 platinum, a 7.05 carat blue zircon, and 1,006 diamonds totaling 3.04 carats. The ring was designed around a concept of "celestial diamond rope" and the challenge of this design was to keep the round wire or "rope" effect throughout. The stone could not be bezel set in a traditional manner without destroying the round contour. The design also calls for a seamless connection of all parts with no visible polished metal showing when the ring is worn. This means diamonds must be set all the way around the thin round wire. The round contour is then set with as many as five rows of diamonds-impossible to lay out by hand in any efficient manner.

NOTE: Buckareff also won 2nd Place Laser Distinction for this ring, due to the complex laser welding of six separately cast pieces in platinum, accomplished at various points in the diamond setting process.

GOLD DISTINCTION

1st Place—Julie Lynn Romanenko of Just Jules LLC in Scottsdale, Arizona, for Gold Cuff in 14k gold, cast and hand fabricated with a 1.66 carat diamond slice, surrounded by 0.25 carat brilliant round diamonds. Individual sections of the bracelet were cast and then hand-assembled.

2nd Place—Liaung Chung Yen in Henrietta, New York, for The Garden brooch/pendant in 18k gold, brown and white diamonds, pearls, and steel. The concave discs with the cutouts, pods, and pearls are scattered, with the linear elements linking them all together. The pod elements are loosely attached to create sounds when worn.

LASER DISTINCTION

1st Place—Julie Buckareff of JJ Buckar in Toronto for Rock Crystal Quartz Flower brooch with rock crystal quartz, white diamonds, natural color pink diamonds, Peruvian opal, 18k rose gold, and palladium. This piece was completely assembled with the use of a laser welder. For a seamless finish or "black line" joint where the palladium meets the 18k red, the artist and her team welded the components from the top side throughout. As the rock crystal could not handle any heat, they were able to mechanically fasten the flower center and the flower head itself only with the use of a laser welder. The rose gold stem was welded together during assembly in order to conceal the seams. The piece could not have been made to this quality standard without the use of laser welding.

2nd Place-Julie Buckareff of JJ Buckar in Toronto for Blue Zircon Diamond Rope ring, described previously.

PALLADIUM DISTINCTION

1st Place—Brian Sholdt of Sholdt in Seattle for Palladium Engagement Ring featuring the artist’s Fern Finish in a solitaire engagement ring with a 6.5 mm diamond. The metal weight is 2.75 dwt. in 950 palladium. 

2nd Place—Susan Drake of Spectrum Art & Jewelry in Wilmington, North Carolina, for Green Flash ring, from a hand-carved wax that was cast in palladium and set with a 7.77 carat mint-green tourmaline; an oval flat-top cut, channel-set 1.23 carat hot pink spinel; and 0.64 tcw round, channel-set diamonds.

PLATINUM DISTINCTION

1st Place—Brian Sholdt of Sholdt in Seattle for Platinum Ring with a Fern Finish milled surface that allows the jeweler to finish it with hand milgraining. The casting is 90 percent platinum and 10 percent iridium. The weight is 6.47 dwt. and the top diameter is 15 mm. The 23 diamonds weigh a total of 0.30 carat. 

2nd Place—Mark Schneider of Mark Schneider Designs in Long Beach, California, for Manta Ray brooch, featuring black onyx, 0.29 tcw emerald cabochons, 0.108 tcw fancy yellow diamonds, and 1.753 tcw white diamonds.

CUSTOM DESIGN DISTINCTION

1st Place—Mark Schneider of Mark Schneider Designs in Long Beach, California, for Black and White Ring in 14k white gold using black and white acrylic, a magnet, and black and white diamonds.

2nd Place—Cynthia Renee of Cynthia Renee Inc. in Chapel Hill, North Carolina, for Fireball Ring featuring a vivid 22.44 carat spessartite garnet (Nigeria) and crafted from 18k yellow gold, 14k rose gold and platinum; engraved in shank. The garnet is accented by five flames of gemstones in graduated colors representing the color progression in a flame: fancy intense yellow diamond, yellow sapphire, red spinel, spessartite garnet, one 2.5 mm white round diamond for accent, and two blue sapphires.

The artist crafted the design with a client from San Diego County, California, where spreading fires are a natural occurrence in the dry landscape. The client and her family had survived a devastating fire that threatened to engulf their home before they were all evacuated. The home survived and the ring celebrates a phoenix rising from the ashes to commemorate the family’s experience. The client wanted a bombe-shape ring with long sweeps of flame that would overlap at places and show airspace between them-much like the real flames of the fire. Renee thought it would be interesting to accent a few flames with a color progression of gems similar to the color progression in actual flames, with blue representing the hottest part of the flame.

FUTURE OF THE INDUSTRY

1st Place-Ariel Alexandrou of University of Kansas, for her Pods ring.

2nd Place (TIE)-Youngjoo Yoo of University of Iowa, for her Laurel brooch.

2nd Place (TIE)-Bongsang Cho of Savannah College of Art & Design, for her Stellar Brooch #9.

The judges of this year’s competition were Michael Coan, Fashion Institute of Technology; Cindy Edelstein, Jeweler’s Resource Bureau; Sarah Graham, Sarah Graham Metalsmithing; Todd Reed, Todd Reed Inc.; Marlene Richey, Consultant; and Tina Snyder, MJSA.

In what one attendee described as "a morale boost for the jewelry industry," the number of buyers and paid exhibitors at the 2012 MJSA Expo New York jumped 10 percent from the previous year’s show, signaling to many that the jewelry industry’s comeback from the Great Recession is strengthening.

The largest U.S. show devoted specifically to jewelry making and design, Expo New York drew more than 3,100 buyers over the course of the show’s three-day run (March 11-13) at the Hilton New York. "Our booth was busy from start to finish-in fact, it was so unexpectedly busy that we ran out of promotional materials mid-day on Sunday!" said Zsombor Antal of Best Cast in River Edge, New Jersey. "The growth in custom design attracted many attendees to Expo, who were searching for the kinds of CAD/CAM and casting services we offer. We saw a lot of new faces."

Some exhibitors had been concerned about Expo running concurrent with BaselWorld in Switzerland, where a hall devoted to equipment and tools attracts many jewelry manufacturers. However, as Patrick Sage of Rio Grande noted, "by the time day one of Expo was over... I realized it didn’t matter."

"MJSA Expo is our biggest equipment-based show, and I know that a lot of manufacturers try to attend both MJSA and BaselWorld," said Sage, who is product manager, equipment and tools, for the Albuquerque, New Mexico-based company. "But the big manufacturers were not the only ones buying this year. Many small- to medium-sized shops were there, too. It’s nice to see that these smaller jewelry makers are in a place that they can spend some money on good products to move their businesses forward."

And it wasn’t just service providers and equipment and tool companies that spoke highly of Expo. Gem dealers Simon and Laurie Watt of Mayer & Watt in Maysville, Kentucky, were among a burgeoning contingent of colored gemstone firms exhibiting at the show. After a great first day, the first-time exhibitors said with assurance they would be coming back: Not only did they complete sales, but they met many of the newer designers who attend Expo. "It’s a great thing to see so many young people joining the business," said Laurie, with Simon noting that although they may not be making larger purchases now, "we’re building relationships for the future."

Attendees also volunteered rave reviews. In addition to her comment about Expo being a "morale boost," Linda Coutu of Dama, a maker and distributor of jewelry components in Johnston, RI, noted that the 2012 show "was perhaps the best attended MJSA Expo in recent history." Jeweler and metalsmith Ayala Naphtali of Fair Haven, NJ, agreed. "I haven’t come to Expo in a number of years, and this is my first year back. I immediately found things that I needed and was glad I made the trip."

"Expo represents the meeting of contemporary technology and creativity. It’s a good place to gain insights on new techniques-almost like a living classroom," said goldsmith Wayne Werner of Havre de Grace, Maryland.

Seminars Attract Crowds, Too

That "classroom" was also in evidence during the three full days of seminars and programs that complemented Expo New York. Highlights included a discussion of how compelling stories and messages can drive sales, with representatives from top brands Alex Woo, Chamilia, Gurhan, and Robin Haley Jewelry; a seminar in which Alishan Halebian, the well-known designer and goldsmith, demonstrated, via live music and other means, how he invokes his muse; and a session in which industry web experts Michael Schechter of Honora Pearls, Jennifer Gandia and Kathy Maurella of Greenwich Jewelers, and moderator Eugene Brill of Rio Grande critiqued audience members’ websites in a highly interactive and packed session.

Both Sunday and Monday also featured MJSA’s popular At the Bench Live hands-on demonstrations, with packed rooms watching Joel McFadden of JMD Jewelry show various finishing and polishing techniques, and Ann Cahoon of Flying Marquis Studio revealing tips from the forthcoming MJSA Press book, Secret Shop Weapons.

On the last morning of the show, Expo hosted the Future of Design Live Finale. Developed by the Jeweler’s Resource Bureau and StrategyWerx, the contest allowed three finalists to deliver 10-minute presentations before a live Expo audience and the Future of Design judges, after which they fielded questions from both groups. The Future of Design, which will be an annual contest, evaluates jewelry designers’ all-important business strategy skills-as well as their design talent. Designer Bree Richey was voted the winner and received a prize package of business services and promotional opportunities worth $250,000.

Among the social events that took place around MJSA Expo was the Monday MJSA Board of Directors Cocktail Reception, which featured the official launch of the Jewelers for Veterans Foundation.  Jewelers for Veterans Chairman Ralph Destino addressed the guests and explained the Foundation’s mission and plans to help locate jobs in the industry for returning veterans.

That same evening, many Expo attendees traveled down to a fashionable SoHo-area restaurant to honor the winners of Johnson Matthey’s Sustainable Design Awards contest, for new talent in platinum and palladium design. (MJSA was a sponsor of the competition.)

By the end of Expo, attendees and exhibitors alike praised their Expo experience-and were looking forward to next year’s event. "My people said the show was fantastic!" said Jo-Anna Moscati, marketing specialist at Materion Corp., Buffalo, NY, which makes products such as precious and non-precious specialty metals and engineered clad- and plated-metal systems."They are already lobbying for a booth for next year!"

For more information about MJSA Expo New York for 2013, click here or contact 1-800-444-MJSA (6572), info@mjsa.org.

MJSA Expo New York, the industry’s leading trade show dedicated to professional excellence in jewelry making and design, will return to the Hilton NY in 2013, running March 10-12.

The 2012 Expo, which took place March 11-13 at the Hilton, was praised by both exhibitors and attendees (one of whom described the show as “a morale boost for the jewelry industry”). More than 3,100 buyers packed the aisles, a 10 percent jump from the previous year’s attendance.

The number of exhibitors also increased by 10 percent, and all reported exceptional traffic. "Our booth was busy from start to finish—in fact, it was so unexpectedly busy that we ran out of promotional materials mid-day on Sunday!" said Zsombor Antal of Best Cast in River Edge, New Jersey.

For more about the 2012 Expo, click here.

Exhibit space for the 2013 Expo New York is now being sold. For more information, click here.

U.S. students enrolled in jewelry-related educational programs are invited to apply for an MJSA Education Foundation scholarship. The deadline is June 15.

Every year, the Foundation—a 501(c) 3 subsidiary of MJSA—offers awards of $500 to $2,000 through its Scholarship Group, which consists of five permanent endowment funds managed by the Rhode Island Foundation. Last year, six students received awards totaling nearly $7,000.

Since 1997, the MJSA Education Foundation has awarded more than $160,000 in scholarships to students.

Applicants can be enrolled in any kind of jewelry training program, as long as they intend to pursue a career in the jewelry industry and can demonstrate financial need. The student is assessed on the basis of course of study, academics, career plans, recommendations, and industry experience. All applicants must be U.S. citizens.

For more information about the 2012 scholarship, click here, or e-mail MJSA.

Following the Federal Trade Commission’s (FTC’s) recent announcement that it will review its Guides for the Jewelry, Precious Metal, and Pewter Industries, MJSA is joining with other industry associations to provide the FTC with recommended updates. As part of that effort, MJSA is heading a Metals Task Force to address such issues as quality marking for bonded and mixed metals, labeling requirements, and overall fineness standards.

The Metals Task Force includes representatives from Platinum Guild International, Jewelers of America, the Fashion Jewelry and Accessories Trade Association, Palladium Alliance International, the World Gold Council, the Silver Institute, and the Jewelers Vigiliance Committee, which is spearheading the overall effort.

The FTC review is part of the agency’s systematic updating of all its rules and guides. Such reviews are conducted every 10 years—and in the world of jewelry metals, much has changed over the past decade.

“The rise in precious metal prices has led many jewelry makers and designers to explore new, lower-cost alloys, many of which fall outside the current Guides,” says David Cochran, president/CEO of MJSA. “Silver-filled jewelry has grown in popularity, for example, and standards need to be established, just as they were for gold-filled products. We’ve also seen the resurgence of palladium in jewelry making, as well as an increase in jewelry combining precious and non-precious materials. The Guides need to encompass all of these developments.”

According to the FTC website, a review typically considers questions such as:

• Has the rule or guide been affected by any technological, economic, or other industry changes?

• What is the economic impact of the rule or guide?

• Is there a continuing need for the rule or guide?

• Are there possible conflicts between the rule or guide and state, local, or other federal laws or regulations?

The FTC is expected to issue shortly a time frame for responses. Updates will be posted on mjsa.org. For more information, e-mail MJSA or call 1-800-444-MJSA (6572).

MJSA will sponsor the “Mystery Box Masterpiece” silent auction at JCK Las Vegas, June 1-4. All proceeds will benefit the MJSA Education Foundation and its scholarship program.

The auction will feature the creations from MJSA Journal’s Mystery Box Challenge, in which three jewelers were given identical boxes of “mystery” materials and told to let their imaginations run wild. The challenge was featured in the Journal’s April 2012 issue.

All of the creations will be on display at MJSA’s JCK booth (B6148), where bids can be submitted. The participating jewelers who donated their pieces are Geoffrey Giles, Gregoré Morin, and Davina Romansky (who is herself a past Foundation scholarship winner).

The suppliers who participated were United Precious Metal Refining (Sterlium Plus silver sheet), Reactive Metals Studio (purple and blue niobium discs and wire), Boston Gems (moonstone cabochon), and Downeast Trading (silver link chain).

A 501(c)(3) non-profit subsidiary of the association, the MJSA Education Foundation supports programs that help to ensure the industry maintains a qualified, competitive workforce. Since 1997, the Foundation has awarded over $160,000 in scholarship support to students enrolled in jewelry design and jewelry making programs at colleges, universities, and technical schools throughout the United States.

To read the “Mystery Box Challenge” article, click here.